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Review: Ham Yard Hotel, London

Elliott Barsby finds respite from the hustle of London’s streets in an oasis of sophistication with a dash of British eccentricity.

We’ve all dreamt of owning a collection of properties across the globe.

I would have a house by the beach in Sydney, a ski lodge in the Swiss Alps, an apartment overlooking Central Park in New York, and, of course, a lovely London terrace.

Unfortunately my property portfolio isn’t quite there yet (I’m still working on the Sydney house), so on this trip to London I had to settle for a night at Ham Yard Hotel. But don’t start feeling sorry for me just yet.

Set in trendy Soho and mere moments from well-known tourist hot spots (Piccadilly, Trafalgar Square, the theatre district, Oxford Circus), Ham Yard Hotel is perfectly located for both exploring this great city as well as escaping it.

It’s a cold and wet afternoon when I arrive (I’m in London, so no surprises there) but my reception could not be warmer; I am greeted by smiling faces and my check-in is a breeze.

I’m offered a quick tour by Cornell, the chatty concierge, who leads me straight to his favourite room: the library, an elegant and inviting space just off reception.

With an assortment of comfy chairs and sofas, ceiling-high shelves packed with carefully selected books (the type you actually want to read), and a cleverly concealed help-yourself honesty bar, I can’t wait to drop my bags off and come straight back here for the afternoon. My plans to explore the British Museum can wait.

Continuing the tour my initial take is that I’ve wandered into a very colourful, very funky art gallery. To a certain extent this is true.

Design director (and co-owner of the hotel) Kit Kemp has used the establishment as a canvas on which to flex her creative muscle with the spaces and rooms carefully filled with quality furniture and art from around the world. With her signature use of colour and texture, Kemp has created an environment that is sophisticated but also doesn’t take itself too seriously. All very British, I feel.

I eventually make it up to my room, one of 91 individually designed bedrooms and suites. Simple and elegant, it feels more like home than a posh hotel. A short hallway leads to a very inviting queen-sized bed, all white but for the splash of red from a couple of cushions.

The soft and subtle floral pattern on the curtains brings a warmth to the room. Floor-to-ceiling warehouse-style windows fill it with light and make the space feel even larger.

Looking down through the rain-speckled windows I spot the street sign on the brick wall opposite – Ham Yard, W1, City of Westminster.

The bathroom is sleek and stylish with dark polished granite, dual vanity, and a very large walk-in shower. God is in the detail, with even the unique amenities designed by Kit Kemp, including the lavender and eucalyptus pillow, linen and room mist carefully left beside the bed after the evening turn down service.

I head down to the Ham Yard restaurant and bar, which is buzzing with beautiful people, the type that look as if they’re genuinely having fun and aren’t just here because it’s fashionable. With endless dining establishments on the nearby Soho streets (the likes of Quo Vadis, Bocca di Lupo, Nopi) it’s a testament to the hotel that it can draw such a trendsetting crowd.

I order a gin and tonic (or two) and nibble on a number of small plates from the bar menu, such as rabbit sausage roll with spicy harissa mayonnaise, and melt-in-your-mouth slow roasted pork sliders.

It’s the shared public spaces that really bring the hotel to life. Downstairs, a 190-seat cinema opens to a Bollywood-style spill-out area complete with vintage movie posters. Opposite the theatre is the Dive Bar, decked out in fabulous neon lights that wouldn’t look out of place in Vegas.

But my favourite area of the hotel is, without doubt, The Croc, an original 1950s bowling alley that was manufactured by the iconic Brunswick company and imported from Texas. A collection of retro bowling balls and shoes (collected from eBay over a number of years) are artistically arranged in front of four bowling lanes, with yet another bar tucked to the side serving refreshments. I spend the rest of the night bowling and chatting with two locals who are catching up at the hotel over a few beers and frames.

After my stay I decide that I would be happy to put the London addition to my dream property portfolio on hold. Ham Yard Hotel already feels like a home away from home, although having my own bowling alley isn’t quite in reach just yet. But one can still dream.

Details

Ham Yard hotel
1 Ham Yard, London, W1D 7DT; firmdalehotels.com

The IT Verdict

  • Location = 9/10
    Brilliantly positioned in the heart of Soho and mere moments from the usual London hot spots.
  • Style/character = 10/10
    Kit Kemp, take a bow.
  • Service = 8/10
    The attentive and knowledgeable staff were only ever too pleased to help.
  • Rooms = 9/10
    Elegant and inviting, I couldn’t have asked for more. Except perhaps a bath.
  • Food and drink = 8/10
    Sophisticated fare showcasing the best of British produce.
  • Value for money = 7/10
    We paid $620 for the night for a Superior Room, including breakfast.

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What the European heatwave means for your summer travel plans

    Rachael Thompson Rachael Thompson
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    Temperatures are soaring this summer, breaking records across Europe and the UK. 

    Euro summer is a feeling like no other. But when a heatwave hits? The dream trip quickly turns into a sweaty mess. Extreme heat is sweeping Europe and the UK this week, with record-high temperatures impacting travel plans across the continent.

    And while Australian summers are typically hotter in absolute temperature, many European cities aren’t equipped for high temperatures, resulting in unbearable weather.

    Why is it so hot in Europe?

    Signs of a hot summer loomed in May, when the mercury hit unprecedented spring highs. Now, extreme high temperature warning alerts have been issued in countries such as Spain, Italy, France, England, the Netherlands and Germany.

    France saw its hottest day on record on Wednesday, with an average temperature of 30°C across the day and night. This surpasses the average temperature for June, which is 15°C to 25°C. Dozens of people have died, including 40 from drowning.

    In Spain, 212 deaths have been linked to the heatwave.

    The UK recorded its hottest June day ever on Wednesday with temperatures soaring to 36.1°C. In an article published by the Met Office – the UK’s national meteorological service – Professor Stephen Belcher CBE, Met Office Chief Scientist, shared his concerns about June’s heat. “To see temperatures like this in the UK in June is sobering. Events like this bring home the implications of climate change, with very high temperatures and humidity bringing significant health implications from heat stress, as well as impacts to a range of sectors such as transport, energy and water supply,” he said.

    Heatwaves are becoming increasingly common in Europe and the UK, neither of which is prepared for such extremes. The World Meteorological Organization reported that in 2025, at least 95% of Europe experienced above-average annual temperatures and that the continent was heating up twice as fast as the global average.

    How travel is impacted

    A pharmacy sign displaying 40 degrees Celcius
    A pharmacy broadcasting local weather data. (Credit: Getty/Dragoncello)

    During a heatwave, power grids, water systems and transport networks can be affected, resulting in disrupted itineraries for travellers. In France, power outages have left thousands without electricity and early closures have been implemented for two of Paris’s biggest attractions, the Eiffel Tower (early afternoon rather than late at night) and the Louvre (two hours early). Eurostar cancelled its London to Paris and Paris to London services from the 22nd to the 25th, and major UK rail companies have been advising travellers to avoid using trains where possible, or to travel during early hours.

    If a heatwave is predicted, being flexible with your itinerary and having fully refundable/changeable tickets is key, as extreme heat can force the cancellation of outdoor activities, impact rail and flight services and change the opening hours of sites and eateries.

    Why does summer in Europe often feel hotter than summer in Australia?

    people swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris
    People swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris to cool off. (Credit: Rachael Thompson)

    With some of the highest UV levels in the world, Australians are no strangers to the heat, adapting well to intense weather. But our infrastructure is largely equipped to withstand soaring temperatures with climate-responsive passive design, refrigerated air conditioning or evaporative coolers, as well as swimming spots aplenty.

    Buildings in Northern and Western Europe and the UK, however, are constructed to retain heat and handle frosty winters. The lack of universal air conditioning means it generally feels hotter even though the temperature on your app might not look it. During a heatwave, it can feel like you’re in a sauna as cities act like heat traps.

    How to stay cool and prepare for another heatwave

    Relief is expected across Europe and the UK later this week, but more heatwaves are still possible in the coming months. Summer heat typically peaks in July and August.

    Public transport often doesn’t have air conditioning, and buses in particular can be swelteringly hot. If you’re heading outside or your accommodation has no air conditioning, it’s worth buying a spray bottle and a handheld fan from a pharmacy or tourist stand. Check ahead of time if restaurants and cafes have air conditioning and make a booking in advance. The highest temperatures typically hit between 3pm and 6pm, so aim to head outdoors outside of these hours.

    Rising temperatures invite travellers to enter a more intentional era of seeing the world. Now more than ever is the time to embrace lower-impact “coolcations” and off-season getaways.

    Review: Ham Yard Hotel, London - International Traveller