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The 6 most underrated ports of my Japan to Korea cruise 

Discover the quiet ports that give heart to a journey through Japan to South Korea. 

When I embarked on a Norwegian Cruise Line sailing from Japan to South Korea, I had visions of the big-ticket destinations: neon-soaked Tokyo, the cultural pull of Kyoto, the energy of Seoul. What I didn’t expect was to fall for the quieter, lesser-hyped ports – the ones that don’t dominate brochures or social feeds but end up giving a trip its texture. 

Over almost two weeks at sea, I discovered that sometimes the places you’ve barely heard of, or assume are just stops, deliver the most surprising experiences. Here are the six underrated ports that won me over.

1. Nagoya 

Nagoya castle
The shachihoko is a prominent presence in Japan’s iconic landmarks. (Image: Emily Murphy)

Before I visited Nagoya, I thought of it as more of an industrial city, better known for its car factories than its cultural highlights. But the moment I arrived, it completely flipped my expectations. 

Nagoya Castle is the city’s pride, and for good reason. Even though the main keep is closed, the sprawling grounds and reconstructed palace offered a glimpse into Japan’s feudal history. What really caught my eye were the golden shachihoko ornaments perched on the rooftops – tiger-fish creatures that looked like something out of mythology, said to protect against fire. They glistened against the sky and became one of my favourite details of the trip. 

Foodies will find plenty to love here, too. Nagoya has its own culinary identity, from miso katsu (a richer, darker take on pork cutlet) to hitsumabushi (grilled eel served three different ways). Tucking into a steaming bowl while locals chattered around me gave me a sense of Nagoya as a city quietly confident in its own skin, no hype required.

2. Kōbe 

Kobe beef
Kōbe beef is world-renowned for a good reason. (Image: Emily Murphy)

If you’ve ever heard of Kōbe, it’s probably because of its world-famous beef. Yes, the beef lives up to the legend – buttery, marbled, melt-in-your-mouth – and yes, eating it in a narrow alleyway restaurant felt like a rite of passage. But Kōbe gave me more than just a good meal. 

The city’s portside memorial to the 1995 Great Hanshin Earthquake was incredibly moving. Preserved slabs of the damaged waterfront sit alongside stories of the lives lost and rebuilt, reminding you that Kōbe’s glossy skyline is built on resilience. 

Add to that a scenic waterfront framed by mountains, and Kōbe reveals itself as a city of contrasts – indulgent yet humble, modern yet deeply rooted in its past. For me, it was the port that reminded me travel isn’t just about consumption, but connection. 

3. Beppu 

Hells of Beppu
The Hells of Beppu were once feared for their boiling waters. (Image: Emily Murphy)

Beppu is Japan’s onsen capital, and you know it the moment you arrive: steam rises from vents in the ground, slipping between buildings like a city perpetually exhaling. It’s both surreal and slightly eerie, and I loved it. 

The famous “Hells of Beppu" showcase the area’s geothermal oddities, from blood-red hot pools to bubbling mud pits. They’re not for bathing – more like natural art installations created by the Earth itself. But what gave Beppu character for me was Takasakiyama Monkey Park, opened in 1952 as a safe place for the growing local monkey population to call home. Hiking up the hill to see wild macaques lounging and grooming each other was equal parts hilarious and fascinating. 

Beppu is quirky, chaotic and unapologetically itself. It’s the kind of place that doesn’t need polish, because its rawness is the attraction. 

4. Jeju 

Jeju Haenyeo
The female divers are admirable for their commitment to environmental sustainability. (Image: Emily Murphy)

Jeju Island in South Korea has a reputation as a honeymoon hotspot, and I half expected it to feel overly touristy. Instead, I found an island layered with stories and traditions that felt deeply grounded. 

The Spirited Garden, with its bonsai trees and lotus ponds, was peaceful and meditative – a total contrast to the bustle of our cruise ship. But the most unforgettable experience was learning about the haenyeo, Jeju’s legendary women divers. These incredible women free dive without oxygen tanks, harvesting seafood from the ocean floor, a practice passed down through generations. Their resilience and strength left me in awe and reminded me that travel is as much about people as it is about landscapes. 

Of course, Jeju’s volcanic origins give it plenty of natural drama too – rugged coastlines, lava tubes, waterfalls. It felt like a place where myth and reality blur. 

5. Kōchi

Kochi castle
Kochi Castle is one of the oldest castles in Japan. (Image: Emily Murphy)

Kōchi turned out to be one of the most charming stops on the itinerary. Unlike larger cities, it felt immediately approachable and easy to navigate. Kōchi Castle is one of only a dozen original castles in Japan that survived the feudal era intact, and climbing its wooden stairs to the lookout made me feel like I’d stepped back in time.

But as much as I loved the history, my standout memory is culinary. Near Hirome Market – a bustling food hall where locals gather for beer and bites – I found a small ramen shop. There, I slurped a bowl of tsukemen, dipping thick noodles into a rich broth, and it was hands-down one of the best meals of the trip.

Kōchi may not appear on many “must-visit" lists, but that’s exactly why it works its charm. It’s intimate, authentic, and gives you the sense you’ve stumbled onto something special.

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6. Shimizu 

Mt. Fuji
Mt. Fuji is an elusive yet worthy sight. (Image: Emily Murphy)

Shimizu is the gateway to Japan’s most iconic peak: Mt Fuji. But here’s the thing about Fuji – she’s famously elusive, often cloaked in clouds.

For most of my excursion, Fuji was nowhere to be seen. We toured scenic beaches and shrines, but I couldn’t shake the sense of waiting for a celebrity who might never show. Then, as we drove back toward port, the clouds finally parted. There she was – perfectly symmetrical, glowing in the afternoon light. The bus collectively gasped, and everyone rushed to the windows.

That fleeting glimpse was worth the wait. In fact, the anticipation made it even more powerful. Shimizu taught me that sometimes travel rewards patience, and that the best views aren’t always guaranteed, but when they come, they’ll stay etched in your memory.

The verdict

Takasakiyama Monkey Park
The Takasakiyama Monkey Park is home to more than 1000 wild Japanese monkeys. (Image: Emily Murphy)

Looking back, these six ports didn’t just fill in the gaps between marquee destinations – they gave the cruise its soul. Each stop had its own rhythm: Nagoya with its golden castle ornaments, Kōbe with its blend of flavour and resilience, Beppu steaming like a sci-fi set, Jeju mixing myth with reality, Kōchi serving tsukemen comfort and Shimizu testing my patience before rewarding me with Fuji herself. 

It made me realise something important: cruising isn’t just about ticking off the obvious highlights. It’s about leaning into the unexpected, embracing the underrated, and letting smaller moments add up to something unforgettable. 

So next time you scan an itinerary and wonder whether those “filler" ports are worth it, take my advice: they might end up being the places you talk about the most.

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These community homestays are changing how travellers experience Nepal

    After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers? 

    In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.  

    Tharu dance
    Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?  

    Nepal gray langur
    Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?  

    How tourism is changing in Nepal

    Bardiya National Park
    Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.  

    Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.  

    “Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.   

    Local men in Bhada village
    Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”  

    Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.” 

    CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.  

    A new generation demanding more

    Dalla Town Hall
    Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”  

    We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”  

    Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels
    Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you… 

    bouda stupa prayer flags
    Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.  

    Boudha Stupa vendors
    Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.  

    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi
    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.  

    Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.  

    Life unfiltered in the Terai region

    tharu woman
    Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.  

    Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.  

    safari through Bardiya National Park
    Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.  

    Marigolds
    Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    “The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.  

    On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.  

    community homestay entrance
    A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.  

    The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.  

    In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.  

    food at community homestay
    Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.  

    The power of community homestays 

    community homestay owners in Nepal
    Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.  

    “I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?” 

    The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed. 

    Sonara community room
    An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.  

    Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.  

    CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.  

    “Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.  

    Elephant watch
    Elephant watch. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.  

    Gathering greens
    Gathering greens. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    “We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.” 

    Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”  

    Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal