hero media

48 elegant hours in Champagne, home of the ‘real stuff’

Australians consume more than seven million bottles of Champagne every year, making us the sixth largest consumers of ‘bubbles’ in the world.

Quentin Long walks us through how to drink in one of France’s most iconic regions.

Day One

9am – Arrive in Reims (pronounced rass for some mysterious Gallic reason) after a 45-minute TGV journey from Paris and dump your bags at Grand Hotel Continental, just a three-minute walk from the train station.

 

10am – Grab a coffee and head out for a two-hour tour of historic Reims. You can join open bus tours via the Reims Tourism office or opt for a more sedate walking tour via Paris Champagne Tour.

From 1914 to 1918, Reims endured a barrage of artillery shelling as the Germans lobbed all manner of exploding objects from the surrounding hills, obliterating 80 per cent of the city’s buildings. Rebuilding Reims was a Herculean task. Four hundred architects and 12,500 workers took a decade to rebuild the city, the reconstruction starting in 1920. As a result, Reims is full of fabulous Art Deco buildings. The best way to see them is to take a stroll along the pedestrianised main square, Place Drouet-d’Erlon, which begins at the front of the Grand Hotel Continental. From early evening the square is where locals come to meet friends for drinks and have a bite to eat, so it’s a great spot to feel like a Champenois.

Continue through the square to admire the Fontaine Subé and its golden-winged Victory, erected in 1989. Then take Rue Marx-Dormoy (on the left of what looks like a miniature Kings Cross Fountain) and poke your head into the oldest church in Reims, Église St-Jacques (Church of St James), built in the 12th century.

Turn onto Rue de Vesle and take a right in front of the Opera House to arrive at the monumental Reims Cathedral, officially the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims. Even if you suffer easily from cathedral fatigue, you can’t miss this one. Make sure to note the Chagall stained-glass windows, and the nuances and mysteries of the plentiful statues, particularly the Smiling Angel. The cathedral is also the seat of Reims’s royal history; in 496AD the first king of France, Clovis, was baptised on this site. From the 11th century, every King of France was crowned in the cathedral.

 

1.30PM – Head back past the Opera House for lunch at an unmissable Reims institution, Café du Palais on Place Myron Herrick. While the people-watching is fun from the tables out front, head to the back of the cafe to sit under the ornate stained-glass ceiling and sip on a glass of the house Champagne, Bollinger, in this most French of bistros.

The obvious choice from the menu is a classic Champenois lunch: ham from Reims, Chaource and Langres cow’s milk cheeses, plus potatoes and salad, all devoured with copious amounts of bread. And for dessert, the other regional classic, biscuit rose de Reims – a delicious pink confectionary.

 

3.30pm – Now begin your deep dive into the world’s most famous alcoholic drink. Several of the major Champagne houses open their cellars to the public for tours; jump in a taxi and head to the outskirts of town to Taittinger. There are no lifts to descend the several storeys underground, so be prepared: wear comfortable shoes and bring a jumper as it is always 12°C down here.

The tour lasts about an hour and starts with the more modern purpose-built Champagne cellars before you reach the deeper, older Roman caves, originally chalk quarries excavated by the Romans in the fourth century. The caves were used as shelters during the First World War bombardment and you can still see carvings in the soft chalk from the inhabitants. After the tour, a tasting of the several Champagne styles will top you up after lunch.

 

7pm – After such an indulgent day, join local families and friends at Brasserie Excelsior (opposite the Grand Hotel Continental) for a simple, classic French dinner; don’t shy away from the excellent escargot and steak tartare.

 

Day two

9am – Pick up a rental car to start exploring the picturesque towns of the region and, of course, the lesser-known Champagnes that you would never find in Australia. In simple terms, the drive will be an arc around the side of the Montagne de Reims Regional Natural Park to Epernay. Pick up breakfast at a village boulangerie to enjoy as you mosey past the vines and villages.

To visit one of these lesser-known Champagne houses, simply email or call ahead to make an appointment. A good selection of the lesser-known gems includes Barnaut, Mercier, G. Tribaut, Aspasie, Fallet Dart, Vilmart & Cie. Be prepared for some surprising flavours in the Champagne that will either delight or disappoint.

 

11:30am – Head to perhaps the most famous of Champagne villages, Hautvillers, home to the Benedictine Abbey and the apocryphal story of a tonsured Dom Pierre Pérignon, who claimed to have drunk the stars when he invented Champagne (historically it is believed the monks stole the recipe from a region further south, Limoux). Wander the abbey and the oh-so-cute medieval village, but tours of the Dom Pérignon operations, owned by LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton), are not possible.

 

1.30pm – For lunch, drop into the AU 36… bistro for a great local platter and, of course, a glass of the bubbles. The platter is a showcase of the local produce: pork terrine, lentils, a macaron and mousse all accompanied by slabs of Chaource and Langres. The Champagne on sale here is comprehensive and the interpretative display helpful in understanding the different characteristics, from citrus to red berry to stone fruit.

 

3pm – Take a rest from the bubbles and work off some of the excesses of the day on the eight-kilometre, 2.5-hour walk from Hautvillers to Champillon. The loop walk skirts the fringes of the forest and heads through vines, with alluring views across the Marne Valley to Épernay and Ay.

 

5.30pm – Take a meandering drive back to Reims, park the car and head to Club Trésors de Champagne, a Champagne emporium where the most celebrated (and the largely unknown) houses are available for tasting. On the floor is a map of the region and above it a bottle hung from the ceiling on a retractable string. Pick a village or spot on the map, reach up and grab the bottle that comes from that town or region. And, of course, you can sip as much as you like of the latest offerings.

 

7.30pm – If the stars align, try to check out Perching Bar for dinner; it is typically only open on Friday and Saturday evenings in summer. Perhaps the most picturesque bar in the whole of France, Perching Bar is set in a treehouse on the edge of the Montagne de Reims Regional Natural Park with astonishing views of the vines and countryside facing west towards Belgium. Sip more of Dom Perignon’s ‘stars’ and nibble on bite-sized snacks as you contemplate coming back next year to do it all over again.

Weekly travel news, experiences
insider tips, offers,
and more.

Want to see more stories from International Traveller in your Google search results?

  1. Click here to set International Traveller as a preferred source.
  2. Tick the box next to "International Traveller". That's it.
hero media

What the European heatwave means for your summer travel plans

Temperatures are soaring this summer, breaking records across Europe and the UK. 

Euro summer is a feeling like no other. But when a heatwave hits? The dream trip quickly turns into a sweaty mess. Extreme heat is sweeping Europe and the UK this week, with record-high temperatures impacting travel plans across the continent.

And while Australian summers are typically hotter in absolute temperature, many European cities aren’t equipped for high temperatures, resulting in unbearable weather.

Why is it so hot in Europe?

Signs of a hot summer loomed in May, when the mercury hit unprecedented spring highs. Now, extreme high temperature warning alerts have been issued in countries such as Spain, Italy, France, England, the Netherlands and Germany.

France saw its hottest day on record on Wednesday, with an average temperature of 30°C across the day and night. This surpasses the average temperature for June, which is 15°C to 25°C. Dozens of people have died, including 40 from drowning.

In Spain, 212 deaths have been linked to the heatwave.

The UK recorded its hottest June day ever on Wednesday with temperatures soaring to 36.1°C. In an article published by the Met Office – the UK’s national meteorological service – Professor Stephen Belcher CBE, Met Office Chief Scientist, shared his concerns about June’s heat. “To see temperatures like this in the UK in June is sobering. Events like this bring home the implications of climate change, with very high temperatures and humidity bringing significant health implications from heat stress, as well as impacts to a range of sectors such as transport, energy and water supply,” he said.

Heatwaves are becoming increasingly common in Europe and the UK, neither of which is prepared for such extremes. The World Meteorological Organization reported that in 2025, at least 95% of Europe experienced above-average annual temperatures and that the continent was heating up twice as fast as the global average.

How travel is impacted

A pharmacy sign displaying 40 degrees Celcius
A pharmacy broadcasting local weather data. (Credit: Getty/Dragoncello)

During a heatwave, power grids, water systems and transport networks can be affected, resulting in disrupted itineraries for travellers. In France, power outages have left thousands without electricity and early closures have been implemented for two of Paris’s biggest attractions, the Eiffel Tower (early afternoon rather than late at night) and the Louvre (two hours early). Eurostar cancelled its London to Paris and Paris to London services from the 22nd to the 25th, and major UK rail companies have been advising travellers to avoid using trains where possible, or to travel during early hours.

If a heatwave is predicted, being flexible with your itinerary and having fully refundable/changeable tickets is key, as extreme heat can force the cancellation of outdoor activities, impact rail and flight services and change the opening hours of sites and eateries.

Why does summer in Europe often feel hotter than summer in Australia?

people swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris
People swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris to cool off. (Credit: Rachael Thompson)

With some of the highest UV levels in the world, Australians are no strangers to the heat, adapting well to intense weather. But our infrastructure is largely equipped to withstand soaring temperatures with climate-responsive passive design, refrigerated air conditioning or evaporative coolers, as well as swimming spots aplenty.

Buildings in Northern and Western Europe and the UK, however, are constructed to retain heat and handle frosty winters. The lack of universal air conditioning means it generally feels hotter even though the temperature on your app might not look it. During a heatwave, it can feel like you’re in a sauna as cities act like heat traps.

How to stay cool and prepare for another heatwave

Relief is expected across Europe and the UK later this week, but more heatwaves are still possible in the coming months. Summer heat typically peaks in July and August.

Public transport often doesn’t have air conditioning, and buses in particular can be swelteringly hot. If you’re heading outside or your accommodation has no air conditioning, it’s worth buying a spray bottle and a handheld fan from a pharmacy or tourist stand. Check ahead of time if restaurants and cafes have air conditioning and make a booking in advance. The highest temperatures typically hit between 3pm and 6pm, so aim to head outdoors outside of these hours.

Rising temperatures invite travellers to enter a more intentional era of seeing the world. Now more than ever is the time to embrace lower-impact “coolcations” and off-season getaways.