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Feast in Fukuoka: Japan’s hidden foodie hotspot is a secret no more

Fukuoka was named one of the top six places in the world to eat on Lonely Planet’s ‘Best in Travel’ list for 2023 – so, what makes this city’s culinary scene so special? 

Fukuoka often gets skipped on Japanese travel itineraries. It’s one of those cities with a familiar name, but largely unknown personality, given it sits in the shadows of popular cousins Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka 

But Fukuoka won’t be a stranger for much longer, given the cat’s out of the bag: Fukuoka has a food scene worth travelling for. Here’s what you should try when you visit. 

Yatai 

Temporary food stalls known as ‘yatai’ are synonymous with Fukuoka. From around 6pm until midnight (or later), around 100 yatai open their non-existent doors to keen diners, who can be seen lining up along the footpath outside their chosen stand.

diners sitting side by side at a Yatai food stall in Fukuoka
Japan’s rich street food culture is seen along the food stalls in Fukuoka. (Image: Emily McAuliffe)

Space is at a premium as yatai are tiny, seating anywhere between 6–15 people around a small pop-up kitchen. Many yatai have a specialty, but you can reliably find things like gyoza, yakitori and ramen on the menu.  

You’ll see the stalls scattered all around the city, but the highest concentrations are in Tenjin and on Nakasu Island. 

a vibrant Yatai food stall filled with customers
Yatai street food stalls are always full house. (Image: Fukuoka Prefecture Tourism Association)

Tonkotsu ramen 

Tonkotsu ramen hails from Fukuoka, and is often referred to as ‘Hakata ramen’, with Hakata being the historical port-side area of Fukuoka city. (Side note, Ippudo, which has outlets in Australia and around the world, was born in Fukuoka.)

a rich bowl of ramen
Get the most authentic ramen experience in Fukuoka. (Image: Fukuoka Prefecture Tourism Association)

A cloudy pork-bone broth gives this ramen its distinct flavour and appearance, and the thin noodles are kept firm (soft noodles in Hakata ramen would be as sacrilege as a well-done wagyu steak).

the famous Ramen Stadium in Fukuoka
Look no further than Ramen Stadium in Fukuoka. (Image: Emily McAuliffe)

When it comes to finding ramen in Fukuoka, there’s an entire food court dedicated to the dish, called Ramen Stadium (found in the Canal City shopping and entertainment complex). But, really, you needn’t look far if a hankering hits – tonkotsu ramen can be found all over the city.

a warm bowl of Tonkotsu ramen
Treat yourself to a warm and comforting bowl of Tonkotsu Ramen. (Image: Emily McAuliffe)

(And at this point we should add that Fukuoka isn’t all street grub and food courts – at last count, the greater prefecture had more than 50 Michelin-star restaurants.)

Tonkotsu Ramen's signage
Tonkotsu Ramen is one of the best noodle dishes in Fukuoka. (Image: Emily McAuliffe)

Shochu 

Like other places in Japan, Fukuoka makes and serves up many types of sake, owing to the region’s plentiful supply of rice and clean, soft water. But the island of Kyushu (on which Fukuoka sits) has a signature spirit called ‘shochu’, which you’ll see on pretty much every drinks menu.  

Shochu will likely remind you of vodka, perhaps mixed with a dash of tequila, but different types of shochu have different profiles and flavours, so don’t write it off based on your first glass if you find it glass-cracking sharp.  

The vodka parallels check out given many types of shochu are made with sweet potato (this style is called ‘imo-jochu’), but it can also be crafted with base ingredients like rice and barley. (Compared to sake, which must abide by a strict ingredient list and formula to legally fit the category, shochu production is much more fancy free.) 

Enjoy shochu on the rocks, with a mixer, or toned down with water; sipped with or without food.

a glass of Shochu with ice
Enjoy an iced cold glass of Shochu. (Image: Emily McAuliffe)

Green tea 

Another of Fukuoka’s specialities is quality green tea. Much of the region’s tea is grown in Yame, found in the prefecture’s south, where vibrant tea fields seemingly roll to infinity across the mountainside.  

Yame ‘gyokuro’ (which means ‘jade dew’, referring to the pale green hue of its infusion) is considered one of the finest green teas in Japan, with a rich, umami flavour that is achieved by shading the tea leaves as they mature. Gyokuro is hand-picked (which helps explain the high price), and new shoots are steamed, rather than roasted.  

Of course, you’ll also find Japan’s famous matcha in Fukuoka, made from finely ground tea leaves.

clean and rich green tea fields in Japan
Vibrant and fertile green tea fields roll across Japan. (Image: Fukuoka Prefecture Tourism Association)

Kakigoya 

If you’re willing to venture out of the city centre for a culinary adventure, jump on a train or drive to Itoshima to try giant, charcoal-grilled oysters at one of the many ‘kakigoya’ (oyster huts) that set up shop along the coast in winter (roughly from October to March). The catch is, you need to cook them yourself, but that’s half the fun.

guests dressed in yellow chitchatting inside an oyster hut in Fukuoka
Oyster huts in Fukuoka create a homey atmosphere for guests. (Image: Fukuoka Prefecture Tourism Association)

Inside the huts, which can be large vinyl tents or sheds, the air and everything in it smells like smoke (so leave the nice cashmere jumper at home, or accept the loan of a jacket from the hut if offered) and expect to jump out of your skin on occasion, as oysters can make a seriously loud pop when they crack open on a grill (spoken from experience).  

grilling oysters
Grill some fresh oysters. (Image: Fukuoka Prefecture Tourism Association)

Kakigoya sell other types of seafood too, like fish, clams, sea snails and squid.  

Out the back of the huts you can appreciate just how fresh the seafood is as you watch fishermen haul their catch onto the jetty.  

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Wagyu beef 

Japan is known for its wagyu beef (simply, wagyu means ‘Japanese cow’, but not all cattle in Japan are wagyu), and the island of Kyushu is where you’ll find some of the best.

a close-up photo of Fukuoka wagyu
Have a taste of Fukuoka’s rich and tender ‘wagyu’ or Japanese beef. (Image: Emily McAuliffe)

Many restaurants in Fukuoka serve up Miyazaki and Saga beef, which is farmed in the prefectures of the same name, and is butter-knife tender and dripping with flavour.

a rich serving of wagyu beef in a charcuterie board
Wagyu beef goes well together with lighter vegetables. (Image: Fukuoka Prefecture Tourism Association)

Steak houses in Fukuoka range from mid-range to premium, and wagyu will likely have pride of place on the menu. Not sure where the beef comes from? Just ask (and use Google Translate if you need to).

grilling wagyu beef
Grilled wagyu beef is oozing with a distinct, smoky flavour. (Image: Fukuoka Prefecture Tourism Association)

Yakitori 

The people of Fukuoka love yakitori and, like most other things on this list, you’ll find it in establishments all over the city. Yakitori means ‘grilled chicken’ (on a skewer), though you can also find skewers of other meats like pork and beef under the yakitori banner.

a plate of grilled Yakitori
Munch on grilled tender chicken bites on sticks. (Image: Fukuoka Prefecture Tourism Association)

Oh, and the chicken variety can encompass all parts of the chicken – choose your own adventure from thigh, breast, cartilage and gizzard.  

Not warming to the cartilage idea? A speciality in Fukuoka is yakitori made with ‘s’-bends of chicken skin (called ‘torikawa’). If you think a skewer of crispy chicken skin sounds delicious, it most definitely is. 

In Fukuoka, you’ll often be served a side of cabbage and vinegar to go with your meat. And, while we’re talking sides, a cold glass of Japanese beer also goes down a treat.

a person grilling meats in skewers
Have some of these seasoned grilled meats in skewers. (Image: Fukuoka Prefecture Tourism Association)
Planning a trip to Japan? Read our guide to everything you need to know about Japan before you go.

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These community homestays are changing how travellers experience Nepal

    After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers? 

    In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.  

    Tharu dance
    Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?  

    Nepal gray langur
    Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?  

    How tourism is changing in Nepal

    Bardiya National Park
    Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.  

    Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.  

    “Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.   

    Local men in Bhada village
    Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”  

    Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.” 

    CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.  

    A new generation demanding more

    Dalla Town Hall
    Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”  

    We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”  

    Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels
    Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you… 

    bouda stupa prayer flags
    Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.  

    Boudha Stupa vendors
    Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.  

    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi
    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.  

    Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.  

    Life unfiltered in the Terai region

    tharu woman
    Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.  

    Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.  

    safari through Bardiya National Park
    Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.  

    Marigolds
    Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    “The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.  

    On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.  

    community homestay entrance
    A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.  

    The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.  

    In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.  

    food at community homestay
    Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.  

    The power of community homestays 

    community homestay owners in Nepal
    Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.  

    “I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?” 

    The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed. 

    Sonara community room
    An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.  

    Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.  

    CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.  

    “Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.  

    Elephant watch
    Elephant watch. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.  

    Gathering greens
    Gathering greens. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    “We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.” 

    Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”  

    Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal