These eateries in Seminyak, Canggu and Ubud offer up a delicious range of meat-free fare and a side of cool cafe culture to go with it.
It’s not easy being green on an island whose most renowned dishes are the traditional Babi guling (suckling pig) or satay (skewered or grilled meat served with peanut sauce). But thanks to the sassy set at Seminyak, Canggu’s new cool crew and the happy hippies of Ubud, Bali is emerging as home to some awesome vegetarian and vegan offerings.
1. Cafe Organic
Meet Bali’s self-proclaimed ‘garden gangstas’ at Cafe Organic, which started out in Seminyak and has rapidly sprouted shoots across the island to Canggu and Umalas. It’s all about organic, health-conscious vegetarian meals crafted from fresh, local produce.
Enjoy mushroom stacks, herbivore feta toast and salacious smoothie bowls. Stop at their shop and buy some cool, eco-friendly items such as bamboo straws and toothbrushes, and coconut bowls.
It’s all about organic, health-conscious vegetarian meals
2. Kynd Community
This pretty, pink plant-based restaurant, bar and ice-creamery in Seminyak is one of a kind. Imbibe love mugs of hot choccy, chai and matcha lattes, juicers, coolers, elixirs, ‘mylk’ shakes and even freakshakes.
Feast on brekkie salads, gourmet toast, smoothie bowls and waffles. There’s even a Kynd Big Mac and an Anti-Cruel Platter. There are some stylish items for sale at the Kynd shop such as cool Be Kynd and Kynd Human t-shirts as well as sustainable brass straw sets and cosmic star spoons. But do get here early, as not only is this cafe popular with plant-loving eaters, but the Instagram crowd as well.
Kynd community itself is one of a kind
3. The Elephant
Recognised by the Slow Food Movement for its environmentally aware and socially fair work practices, this Ubud restaurant aims to serve 100 per cent vegetarian food. Boasting a beautiful position overlooking the Tjampuhan Ridge, feast on sweet and savoury, salads and snacks and fresh juices. Main meals include spaghetti ‘I can’t believe it’s not’ bolognaise; fettucine; and crisp Vietnamese pancakes.
Finish with Johnny Freesh’s ‘awesome raw chocolate pie’. The eco ethos is simple: serving earth-friendly food while at the same time, reducing, reusing and recycling. Make sure you check out The Elephant’s sister restaurant Green Ginger Noodle House in Canggu, as well as DUMBO, another member of The Elephant stable, also plating up vegetarian wood-fired Italian food.
You’ll find 100 per cent vegetarian food at The Elephant
4. Living Food Lab
As the name suggests, this vegan cafe in Canggu is all about live food, which means nothing is heated beyond 45 degrees Celsius. The laboratory part comes from their ethos of always experimenting to deliver the best tastes possible.
Expect your drink to be delivered in a test tube, delivered by servers who wear lab coats at special events. This cafe/restaurant is where industrial meets green and is also an art gallery, co-working space, event venue, movie and documentary room, music spot and educational space. Drink cool coffee and teas, tonics and shots, juices, refreshers and smoothies, and dine on healthy bowls, sandwiches, toasties, rolls, wraps, salads, and energy bars, balls and cookies.
Expect perfectly portioned live food
5. Crate Cafe
Funky boutique store Lifescrate in Canggu carries some of Bali’s best designer labels and also serves up some slick food. It’s all about good music, good food, good people, good vibes and good coffee at Crate Cafe.
Relax in the plush pink lounge while feasting on some fabulous fare and sipping a Vgato Vegan coffee. There’s plenty of chia, super and smoothie bowls, and juices to choose from. Check out the Hipster or Why So Cereal smoothie bowls on the menu. Visit the art gallery at this venue, which stages monthly exhibitions to allow artists to mingle and exhibit their work and is aimed at ensuring to Canggu is not only known for its cool, but as a fine art destination as well.
Crate cafe is all about good music, good food, good people, good vibes and good coffee
6. Two Trees Eatery
Feast on breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks here at Two Trees Eatery; the sunny, yellow establishment in Canggu. Start your day with an Aloe Charcoal concoction of apple, lemon, ginger, aloe vera, activated charcoal and coconut water.
Transform your smoothie into a bowl sprinkled with spirulina coconut dust, homemade granola and house coconut yoghurt. Try the Green Hug in a Wrap for lunch and the sweet potato gnocchi puttanesca for something more substantial.
Their philosophy is ‘something for everyone or something for you every day and every meal.’ Experience Australia’s cafe culture vibe plus the decadence of France in this light and bright space which, as the name suggest, has plenty of greenery.
Two trees is Canggu’s sunny, yellow establishment
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7. Sayuri Healing Food
Sayuri Healing Food. The name of this Ubud eatery alone is enough to inspire you to more healthy food choices and there are plenty of options on offer here. All food and drinks are 100 per cent plant-based vegan, high-vibrational, mostly raw-living and gluten free.
They are also ethically and organically sourced whenever possible and sometimes lightly cooked when it is believed to be more beneficial. Sip on yoga-proof tonics, slurp hemp protein smoothies, and slam down gut essence shots.
Try the jackfruit pulled ‘pork’ sandwich and the teriyaki tempeh burger. Sayuri is also internationally renowned for its raw food chef training which includes lectures, field trips and time with other inspiring people from around the world who value the same ethos of the ever-growing raw food movement.
After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers?
In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.
Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)
Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?
Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)
The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?
How tourism is changing in Nepal
Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)
India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.
Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.
“Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.
Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)
The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”
Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.”
CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.
A new generation demanding more
Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)
The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”
We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”
Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)
In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you…
Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)
The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.
Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)
A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.
A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)
Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.
Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.
Life unfiltered in the Terai region
Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)
The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.
Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.
Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)
We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.
Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)
“The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.
On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.
A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)
They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.
The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.
In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.
Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)
Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.
The power of community homestays
Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)
Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.
“I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?”
The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed.
An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)
Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.
Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.
CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.
“Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.
Elephant watch. (Credit: Simon Urwin)
In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.
Gathering greens. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)
“We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.”
Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”
Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal.
