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The ultimate guide to the best bars and beach clubs in Bali

Here are the best bars and beach clubs in Bali, from Seminyak to Uluwatu, Canggu to Kuta.

From tucked-away drinking dens to beachfront bars with DJ booths, here is our pick of some of the best bars in Bali for a beverage or two. And it’s not all about necking cheap Bintangs. With a raft of shimmering hotels and resorts rising along its edges, Bali now has bars and beach clubs that cater to all comers.

Best bars in Bali

Chasing the best Bali bars means moving between slick cocktail dens and cliffside hangouts where the drinks are as sharp as the views. Bali now has bars and lounges that rival some of the world’s best. From clifftop cocktails to low-lit speakeasies, here’s the best of Bali’s bar scene mixing serious drinks with serious views.

Buzo Izakaya e birra

Japanese cuisine at Buzo Izakaya e birra, Bali
This sophisticated bar redefines the classic Japanese izakaya. (Credit: Buzo Izakaya e birra)

Best for: Lobster spaghetti and a few silky shiso margies with the gals.

Chalk up a visit to Buzo Izakaya e Birra on your next whirlwind bar crawl in Seminyak. This sophisticated bar is yet another happening haunt from Will Meyrick. And the decor alone is enough to anoint customers into the Buzo congregation drawing as it does from a palette of warm wood tones, rich aubergines and gleaming copper. Will Meyrick has gifted Bali with some of the island’s best restaurants. Now he’s taken things up a notch with this 104-seater drinking den, which brews craft beers in-house and is one of the sharpest new bars in Bali.

Opening hours: noon–10.30pm daily
Address: Jl. Kayu Aya No.105, Seminyak, Badung

Le Club 22

Best for: Forget ‘reel’axation. Put your device down to fully decompress.

Swing the spotlight away from Seminyak and point it toward the southernmost point of Bali. That’s where you’ll find Le Club 22. And you bet it evokes all the romance of Le Club 55, the St-Tropez bar named after the same year it opened. Le Club 22 was founded in – you guessed it – 2022. The delightful beach shack is styled like something from the Mamma Mia film set, all nautical blues and soft whites. After cocktails and bar bites with your toes in the sand, go for a boogie at nearby Kanda Beach Club before resting your head at Karma Kandara, one of the best places to stay in Bali.

Opening hours: 9am–9pm daily
Address: Karma Kandara Bali, Banjar Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan, Badung, Bali, Indonesia 80362

Boto Biru Bar & Grill

Boto Biru Bar & Grill at Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort
Get a front-row seat to Bali’s signature sunsets at Boto Biru Bar & Grill.

Best for: Feeling smug that you’re in Bali again

Linger at Boto Biru Bar & Grill while watching your other half ride the waves at Impossibles (named for the fact they are impossibly fast) out front of Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort. There is probably no place as dazzling to watch orbs of sunlight glinting all around while surfers ride the waves rolling in toward the limestone cliffs of Uluwatu. It’s one of the best bars in Bali for its front-row seat to the show. This destination bar also appeals as a spot to watch the sun descend with a post-swim Aperol spritz.

Opening hours: 11am–5pm; 5pm–10pm
Address: Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort, Pecatu, Bukit Peninsula

W Lounge

W Lounge in Seminyak
The neon-lit bar transitions into a lively night scene.

Best for: Burning off a few calories while dancing to soulful grooves and beats

W Lounge has a lot of wow factor. The bar housed within W Bali Seminyak is one of the best bars in Bali for a martini and a good time. Snag a booth in the neon-lit bar to sip on cocktails or enjoy a high tea amid the kind of Bali crowd that can rock a bathroom selfie. Watch this space as the hotel is set to open Alune, a multi-sensory beach club that will span three levels at the beachfront resort. W Bali Seminyak’s Michelin-trained executive sous chef Jules Winckler will lead the culinary direction across the venue.

Opening Hours: 8am–midnight
Address: Jalan Petitenget Seminyak, Jl. W Retreat, Kerobokan Kelod, Kec. Kuta Utara

Luna Beach Club

Luna Beach Club in Bali
Enjoy sunset cocktails on bespoke day beds. (Credit: Luna Beach Club)

Best for: Posing in various states of repose in your mermaid tail.

While Luna Beach Club near Nyanyi Beach is light and bright by day, it’s artfully illuminated at night with sculptures inspired by Burning Man, fibre-optic art installations, fairy lights and Fibonacci-inspired architecture. Luna Beach Club itself is arrayed around a manicured lawn, pulled up over the natural amphitheatre like a crocheted green throw. There’s the Utopia Cave Club, an adults-only zone from 3pm. A jumping platform and slide. Bali’s biggest bespoke day beds. And the world-class Restaurant 369, one of the best places to enjoy sunset cocktails in Bali.

Opening hours: 10am–late daily
Address: Jl. Kayangan, Beraban, Kec. Kediri, Kabupaten Tabanan, Bali

La Plancha

bright Balinese parasols at La Plancha, Bali
Watch the sunset under bright Balinese parasols. (Credit: La Plancha)

Best for: Surfing at la playa, then rolling straight into a big, easy brunch at La Plancha.

Cooking food ‘a la plancha’ means searing it over a very hot grill. It’s also the style of food cooked in Gonzalo Assiego’s hometown in Spain. The bar established by the founder of the LYD Group looks like the love child of a Balinese warung and Spanish chiringuito – all beanbags and bright Balinese umbrellas. The beach bar also sparkles with its festoon lighting, beautiful vintage vibe and friendly service. The secret’s out. But that’s how it goes. La Plancha has been the name on everyone’s lips since 2010. The LYD Group also has Attika La Brisa La Favela La Plancha and La Laguna.

Opening hours: 10am–11pm daily
Address: Jl. Double Six, Seminyak, Kec. Kuta, Kabupaten Badung, Bali

Motel Mexicola

Best for: Tequila shots and dancing on tables with your mates.

Those on exotic Eat, Pray, Love sabbaticals to Bali have been enjoying letting their hair down at Motel Mexicola for more than a decade. The bar is a riot of colour and neon and presents like a giant shrine to all things Mexican. Yes, there’s a lot of fun to be had over tacos and tequila, quesadillas and cervezas. The original Motel Mexicola in Seminyak now has a sister venue in Canggu and both are known for exuding character, warmth and idiosyncratic flourishes.

Opening hours: 11am–late daily
Address: Jl. Kayu Jati No.9X, Kerobokan Kelod, Kec. Kuta Utara, Kabupaten Badung, Seminyak; Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong No.117X, Canggu

Hippie Fish

cocktails at Hippie Fish, Bali
Sip on refreshing cocktails at this sunny Mediterranean-inspired rooftop bar in Pererenan. (Credit: Hippie Fish)

Best for: Sipping and mingling over a Mediterranean feast.

There’s something about being on holidays in Bali that inspires us to stop, pause and reflect. If you took a fish-eye view of Hippie Fish at dusk you’d see the boho crowd standing out in sharp silhouettes against the burnt orange sky. Staring toward this bright basketball slam-dunking over the sea is a ritual in Bali and a peaceful way of marking the passing of another day. Hippie Fish is a sunny Mediterranean-inspired rooftop bar in Pererenan, a top spot to sip, mix and mingle. Order the calamari fritti and a coupla cocktails.

Opening hours: noon–11pm daily
Address: Jalan Pantai Pererenan No.171, Pererenan Beach

Rock Bar Bali at AYANA Bali

Best for: Toasting to travel with a few Rock My World cocktails over the sun-kissed cliffs.

The New York Times named Rock Bar as Bali’s Best Sunset Venue in 2011. And while a lot of water has passed under the Jimbaran bridge since then, the spectacular setting 14 metres above the ocean remains the same. The bar at the base of the towering cliffs that frame AYANA Bali was conceived by Japanese glass artist Seiki Torige using recycled glass and is still a prime place to perch, sundowner in hand. Head to nearby After Rock, the nightspot next door for kick-ons.

Opening hours: 4pm–midnight daily
Address: Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, Kec. Kuta Sel., Kabupaten Badung

Jungle Fish Pool Bar

Jungle Fish Pool Bar in Bali
Relax in a hanging bed with a cocktail in hand. (Credit: Chapung Sebali Resort)

Best for: An organic escape from the hustle and bustle of the real world.

The Jungle Fish Pool Bar is skirted by Ubud’s finest greenery. The pool bar is part of the Chapung Sebali hotel but welcomes non-guests to sunbathe on a day bed and swim in the pool for a minimum spend. Swim up to the pool bar for a cocktail and corn on the cob. Relax in a hanging bed. Or fuel up on tuna tataki and prawn wontons. Dance like you’ve never danced before while enjoying the spectacular bird’s-eye view over the Wos River valley below. Live music starts at 7pm.

Opening hours: 8am–9pm daily
Address: Jl. Raya Sebali, Keliki, Kec. Payangan, Kabupaten Gianyar

Souvenir Bar

Best for: Those who appreciate the elevated art of crafting cocktails and sipping sake

Want a souvenir of Bali that goes beyond a fridge magnet? Take home some great memories instead. Souvenir Bar is an intimate 15-seater bar created by expats Louise Millroy, of Kinship Studio, and Michael Madrid, a Bali-based photographer. The drinks list of natural wines, cocktails and sake was curated by Sophia Burger whose CV includes a stint at Noma in Copenhagen. Expect seasonal bar bites and cocktails at this sophisticated zero-waste bar, which has its own custom fragrance. Ooh-la-la.

Opening hours: Mon-Sat 7pm–midnight; closed Sundays
Address: Gg. Jalak VIB No. 4, Tibubeneng, Kuta Utara, Badung

Segno Bali

the moody interior of Segno Bali
Sip on bespoke cocktails in this dimly lit speakeasy.

Best for: Hiding away from the Kuta crowds in a moody corner.

Segno is a musical sign that marks the beginning or the end. Take that as a good omen and bookend an evening at this hidden gem in Canggu. The dimly lit speakeasy is all about finding the unexpected with everything from hand-cut ice to bespoke cocktails made to order. Expect a motley crew of expats kicking back in the coffee and caramel-hued space being entertained by bartenders who take their craft seriously. Plump for the Canggu Pornstar with vanilla and jackfruit butter with osso buco arancini on the side.

Opening hours: Sun–Thu 7pm–1.30am; Fri–Sat 7pm–2am
Address: Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong No.91, Canggu, Kec. Kuta Utara, Kabupaten Badung

One Eighty Bali

the Cliff Bar at One Eighty Bali
Imbibe elevated signature cocktails at One Eighty Bali.

Best for: Taking a selfie in the sky pool extending six metres over the cliff’s edge

You can’t nab a table at the Cliff Bar unless you’re staying at The Edge. But you can get a day pass for One Eighty, which still offers a great 180-degree vantage point over Uluwatu. Join in-the-know crypto bros for creative takes on classic cocktails and a few signature starters such as cheeseburger sliders and tacos. Wait until sunset when the ocean shines like a sapphire in the last of the light before heading out for dinner in Uluwatu.

Opening hours: 10am–9pm daily
Address: Banjar Dinas Kangin Jl. Pura, Uluwatu

SugarSand

SugarSand restaurant at Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach
The much-loved Seminyak beach bar and restaurant offers contemporary Japanese cuisine. (Credit: Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach)

Best for: Okonomiyaki, crispy tuna and yuzu-spiked cocktails

The No. 1 quandary you will be faced with at SugarSand is which cocktail to order from the comfort of your sun lounger. The beachfront bar and grill skews toward Japanese izakaya cuisine so you can snack on light bites such as edamame, chicken katsu sandwiches and glazed chicken karaage. The drinks list also pays homage to cocktail culture in Japan with pun-tastic drinks like the ume-groni. The bar and grill is at Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach, is mere steps away from the sugar-white sands of Seminyak Beach.

Opening hours: 7am–11pm daily
Address: Jl. Camplung Tanduk (Double Six), Seminyak, Kec. Kuta

Beach Bar at Alila Seminyak

Best for: Feasting on smoky, BBQ skewers and cocktails with your toes in the sand

A bar prefaced with the word ‘beach’ is a good bet during the sunset hour in Seminyak. The bar at Alila Seminyak is also the kind of place where you can lose track of time. The bar has beanbags, big tunes and a menu that will keep you well fuelled ahead of a night of dancing. Ask the mixologist to muddle up a Tangerine Whisper, which you can pair with a selection of bar bites such as seared prawns and calamari. Alila Seminyak is centred around a communal area that includes four infinity pools.

Address: Inside Alila Seminyak, Jl. Taman Ganesha Jl. Petitenget No.9A, Seminyak
Opening hours: 11am–10pm daily

Best beach clubs in Bali

The best Bali beach clubs deliver more than a daybed and a banging playlist. They shift the needle from long lunches to oceanfront clubs and DJs that carry you past sunset. From polished clifftop perches to sand-between-your-toes spots, these are the best Bali beach clubs to check out right now.

Single Fin Bali

Best for: Catching a few kegs with the boys out at Ulus, then rolling into sunset beers at Single Fin

You don’t have to surf a single fin to gain entry to Single Fin Bali. But the love of a longboard definitely unites salty-haired surfers who like to reminisce about the good old days. The iconic cliffside beach bar pays homage to the pioneering surfers who discovered Uluwatu in the 1970s. Check the bar’s live webcam before wriggling into your rashie. Surf as flat as glass? No matter. The iconic clifftop bar with the Cali-meets-Canggu vibe is a good place for all tribes to gather. Stay across the events page on the website as it offers updates on the annual Uluwatu Single Fin Classic.

Opening hours: Mon–Tue 8am–10pm; Wed 8am–1am; Thu–Sat 8am–10pm; Sun 8am–1am
Address: Jl. Pantai Suluban, Jl. Labuansait, Pecatu, Kec. Kuta Selatan

Mrs Sippy

Best for: Healing your back slap with a few cheeky poolside cocktails

Mrs Sippy is a perennially popular holiday spot for Aussies who will find all their vay-cay cravings covered at this Seminyak stalwart, where local and international DJs hit the decks on the daily. Start practising your double pike and tuck to impress your new mates hanging poolside at Mrs Sippy, home to Bali’s largest freeform swimming pool. Yes, it’s okay to do a victory lap in your Scunnos if you execute that backflip. Carb-load post-dive on pineapple-laden Hawaiian pizza and cocktails for the win.

Opening hours: 10am–9pm daily
Address: Jl. Taman Ganesha, Gang Gagak 8, Kerobokan

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Desa Potato Head Beach Club

the interior of Desa Potato Head Beach Club
Sip and unwind at the tropical-inspired Desa Potato Head Beach Club.

Best for: Dancing the night away

It’s impossible to scratch the surface of Desa Potato Head Beach Club in a day. Swim, eat, sip, unwind at the beach club, where the seeds for Potato Head first sprouted. Walk-ins are welcome, though like most of Bali’s beach clubs, there is a cover charge to enter the club during peak hours. It doesn’t matter what time of the day or night you visit this creative playground built on the beachfront in Seminyak: you’re guaranteed a great time. There’s no dress code.

Opening hours: Sun–Thu 10am–midnight; Fri–Sat 10am–2am
Address: Jl. Petitenget No.51B, Seminyak, Kec. Kuta Utara

Café del Mar

Best for: Oysters, sangria and giving off an air of superiority
Bali is known for having some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. It’s got some big beach club energy too. Cue the Café del Mar soundtrack: the little sister to the OG Café del Mar Beach Club in Ibiza, has captured the spirit of the best beach clubs from around the world and imbued it with a breezy Balinese vibe. Maintain your superiority by booking a private pool booth set back from the infinity pool away from the hoi polloi. Nothing hits like a dozen oysters, natural, with a sinful litre of sangria.

Opening hours: 11am–8pm daily
Address: Jl. Subak Sari, Canggu, Tibubeneng, Kec. Kuta Utara

COMO Beach Club

the COMO Beach Club in Canggu, Bali
This Canggu beach club stands out from louder party venues with its laid-back, luxury vibe. (Credit: COMO Beach Club)

Best for: Golden hour cocktails with the girlies to capture that perfect photo dump from your Bali hols

COMO takes the concept of a humble beach shack and elevates it up the yin-yang at COMO Beach Club at COMO Uma Canggu. Think all-day dining. Day beds on swings. And a drinks menu listing everything from pitchers of punch to classic cocktails and mocktails. Forget no-frills. Think all the bells and whistles and then some. Order a globetrotting array of comfort snackage such as a platter of cured meats and pickles and pork and prawn dumplings or the aptly named Big Raw Salad for those who like to eat a rainbow.

Opening hours: 7am–10pm daily
Address: Jl. Pantai Batu Mejan, Canggu, Kec. Kuta Utara

The Lawn Canggu

Best for: Sunset margs and DJs that nudge nepo babies to spam-call their folks for more money.

Expect a bit of whiplash while lingering at The Lawn Canggu as the world-class venue attracts some of the biggest names in music and surfing. Pro surfer Tai Buddha is behind The Lawn Canggu so don’t even think about cutting his grass. The seeds for The Lawn were sown when Tai started serving margaritas to surfers and beachgoers out of a Kombi van in Canggu. Now a leading venue, you can start with day sippers like the Aperol Splush and snacks before moving onto more substantial mains paired with tiki treats.

Opening hours: Mon–Fri 10am–10pm; Sat–Sun 10am–11pm
Address: Jl. Pura Dalem, Canggu, Kec. Kuta Utara

Byrd House Bali

Byrd House Bali's cosy outdoor setting
Relax with a drink in a cosy outdoor setting on Segara Beach. (Credit: Byrd House Bali)

Best for: One-upping your mates bragging about their Euro summer with a spritz (or three) by the sea

Head to Segara Village Hotel on Sanur’s beachfront if you’re in the mood for mixing it up. Once you find your favourite spot to perch at the onsite Byrd House, you might want to turn your attention to the birds in the trees and mimic their territorial behaviour over that sun lounger. The main building of the Byrd House has been designed to emulate a nest. Come home to roost after a day spent surfing to enjoy cocktails and nibbles by the pool.

Address: Jl. Segara Ayu, Sanur, Denpasar Selatan
Opening hours: Mon–Thu 6.30am–11:00pm; Fri–Sun 6.30am–11.30pm

Uma Beach House

Best for: Families and friends who want a polished beach club

Set on the white sands of Melasti Beach, Uma Beach House at Umana Bali brings a more relaxed take on Bali’s beach club scene. The name, uma, is a nod to the Balinese word meaning ‘paddy field’, which reflects the hotel’s connection to land and community. Cocktails such as the Yuzu Glow Sunset and Coral by the Bay anchor long, lazy sessions by the beachfront infinity pool, cabanas and sunset lounges. With capacity for up to 150 guests, it also welcomes walk-ins to one of the Bukit Peninsula’s most pristine stretches of coast.

Opening Hours: 10am–9pm daily
Address: Jl. Melasti Beach, Ungasan, Kec. Kuta Sel

La Brisa

Best for: Beach club sessions in Ibiza’s off-season

Set on Echo Beach in Canggu, La Brisa is built entirely from reclaimed wood sourced from more than 500 old fishing boats, giving it a raw, weathered edge that feels distinctly coastal. Think Castaway chic with a Bali bent. Draw your out-of-office message in the sand then use a conch shell to summon your party people to the bar. Come sunset – the place takes things up a notch. As the day rolls on, drift from laid-back daybeds to sunset sessions with ocean views and wood-fired plates.

Opening hours: 10am–11pm everyday
Address: Jl. Pantai Batu Mejan, Canggu, Kec. Kuta Utara, Kabupaten Badung, Bali 80361, Indonesia

Savaya

Savaya Bali at sunset
Savaya offers breathtaking ocean views. (Credit: Savaya Bali)

Best for: Feeling sassy

Savaya is known for being one of the best beach clubs in Bali. And now it’s official: with DJ Mag ranking it as #1 Club in Asia. Known for hosting world-class DJs such as Fisher and Peggy Gou, the clifftop club perched 100 metres above the ocean attracts a high-energy crowd drawn to its scale and reputation. Flex your Big Cowboy Pop choreography with your squad when Kesha’s Timber comes on.

Opening hours: Mon–Thu 1pm–10pm; Fri–Sat 3pm–midnight; Sun 1pm–late
Address: Jl. Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambiyak, Pecatu, Uluwatu, Kabupaten Badung, Bali 80364, Indonesia

Atlas Beach Club

Best for: Ticking off some ‘big things’ in Bali: as well as being the biggest beach club in the world, it features the longest beach bar in Asia

You don’t necessarily need an outfit change when you head from the beach to this Canggu club. Spread across a whopping 2.9 hectares in Canggu, Atlas Beach Club proudly boasts the title of the world’s largest beach club. And Atlas is on the map for its world-class entertainment, daily cultural performances and a high-energy atmosphere. It’s the kind of place where you will lose track of time, along with your mates, and any intention of leaving early.

Opening hours: noon-midnight daily
Address: Jl. Pantai Berawa No.88, Tibubeneng, Kec. Kuta Utara, Kabupaten Badung.

Finns Beach Club

Best for: Finns VIP experience:  bottle service, valet entry and being looked after properly from start to finish

‘You can find me in the club, bottle full of bub’. Finns Beach Club deserves its buzz. The club is so close to the ocean you can see it glinting through the trees and winking at you with its watery eye. You’re on holiday. So wait till your internal clock chimes and then make your way to Berawa Beach. Finns is not the place for wallflowers. A bar crawl here takes commitment: there are seven pools, 12 bars, two swim-up bars and seven kitchens spread across multiple party zones. A renowned stomping ground for party animals.

Address: Jl. Pantai Berawa No.99, Canggu, Kec. Kuta Utara
Opening hours: 11am–midnight daily

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These community homestays are changing how travellers experience Nepal

    After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers? 

    In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.  

    Tharu dance
    Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?  

    Nepal gray langur
    Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?  

    How tourism is changing in Nepal

    Bardiya National Park
    Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.  

    Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.  

    “Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.   

    Local men in Bhada village
    Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”  

    Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.” 

    CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.  

    A new generation demanding more

    Dalla Town Hall
    Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”  

    We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”  

    Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels
    Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you… 

    bouda stupa prayer flags
    Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.  

    Boudha Stupa vendors
    Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.  

    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi
    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.  

    Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.  

    Life unfiltered in the Terai region

    tharu woman
    Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.  

    Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.  

    safari through Bardiya National Park
    Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.  

    Marigolds
    Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    “The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.  

    On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.  

    community homestay entrance
    A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.  

    The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.  

    In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.  

    food at community homestay
    Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.  

    The power of community homestays 

    community homestay owners in Nepal
    Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.  

    “I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?” 

    The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed. 

    Sonara community room
    An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.  

    Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.  

    CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.  

    “Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.  

    Elephant watch
    Elephant watch. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.  

    Gathering greens
    Gathering greens. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    “We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.” 

    Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”  

    Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal