Amed, Bali: What You Need to Know

Slip away to Amed Bali, where a collection of fishing villages offer a slower, more authentic side of the island.

Diving and snorkelling have drawn ocean lovers to this far-flung stretch of coast since the nineties. Now, this under-the-radar enclave is evolving into a low-key holiday escape.

Best visited during the dry season from May to October, Amed beach life moves to a gentle rhythm. You won’t find beach clubs and neon nightlife here. Instead, candy-coloured jukung (outrigger) boats line up along the shore, fishermen move quietly at sunrise and some of Bali’s clearest, most reef-rich waters lap the black-sand coast in a shifting palette of turquoise and cobalt.

From boutique stays to barefoot bungalows, Amed accommodation offers easy access to the ocean and an unfussy base to soak up one of Bali’s most laidback corners.

Where is Amed?

Traditional boats called *jukung* on a black sand beach in Amed, Bali. (Credit: Getty/tashka2000)

Amed is tucked at the foothills of broody Mount Agung, along Bali’s wild northeast coast, in the Karangasem Regency. It unfurls as a 14-kilometre ribbon of onyx-sand bays and sleepy fishing villages.

Coral gardens shimmer beneath cerulean water and jungle-clad hills, decorated with lush rice terraces that fold into the horizon. It’s a world away from the island’s busier tourist hubs – relaxed and gloriously unpolished.

How to get to Amed

the mountain landscape in Amed, Bali — Amed, Bali features some of the most lush greenery imaginable. (Credit: Getty/Galdric Sibiude)

Getting to Amed is part of the slow exhale. Once the carmageddon traffic is in the rearview mirror, beach clubs give way to rice fields, then climb into volcanic slopes with teasing glimpses of ocean. Roads are windy so nab the front seat for the best views and remember motion sickness tablets if you are particularly sensitive.

From Ngurah Rai International Airport or Bali’s southern hubs of Seminyak and Canggu the journey takes about 2.5 to 3.5 hours depending on traffic and will set you back around A$50 to A$80. From Ubud, you’re closer – around 2 to 2.5 hours – winding through some of Bali’s most scenic valleys and traditional villages.

Rideshare apps can get you there but private drivers are the easiest, most flexible option. For a seamless run, book ahead through Klook who offer set pricing and vetted drivers. There’s no direct public transport, which only adds to Amed’s under-the-radar appeal.

Once you arrive, there’s no Grab or Gojek operating in the area and taxis are scarce. Drivers stick to busier pockets, so don’t expect to hail a ride on a whim. Bottom line – book ahead. Walkability is good in most pockets but to move between villages, you will need transport.

Best things to do

Hawksbill Turtle at USAT Liberty Wreck, Amed Bali — Spot a Hawksbill Turtle underwater. (Credit: Getty/WhitcombeRD)

Start where Amed shines – in the water. With the reef close to the shore, it’s easy to slip straight in and snorkel over coral where fish flicker like confetti. For a small fee, local beach vendors can kit you out with gear. Choose a boat tour – there’s an abundance of local operators – and skim across the satin blue sea and plunge into the temperate water wonderland along this coast. Glimpsing a Hawksbill turtle, its amber and obsidian shell a moving mosaic is not uncommon, with the most likely sightings around Turtle Point. Be mindful of the current here.

At popular Jemeluk Bay, in shallow water, a cluster of stone statues emerges. Beams of sunlight pierce the water to shine attention on a stony mermaid, her body softened by coral growth; her face dappled in the shifting light. Nearby, a giant baby head rests like a huge bowling ball and a working mailbox stands proud – waiting for eager divers to post waterproof postcards that can be bought from local dive shops and cafes.

USAT Liberty shipwreck in Amed, Bali — USAT Liberty is one of the most accessible shipwreck dives in Bali. (Credit: Getty/WhitcombeRD)

In nearby Tulamben, 30 metres from the rocky beach, rests the USAT Liberty shipwreck. This shore entry dive is perfect for both snorkellers and scuba divers alike. Resting in just 5 metres of water at its shallowest point and 30 metres at its deepest, try to spot swaying pygmy seahorses hidden in the gorgonian sea fans, green and purple-hued parrotfish or giant trevally.

If you’re confident, scooter hire is easy to organise in Amed but be sure to check your insurance fine print to make sure you’re covered. Trace the coastline, where you’ll find hidden viewpoints, low-key beachside warungs and pretty bays to swim at. Head inland where lush, rice terraces abound and a spectacular mountainous landscape reaches for the clouds. Getting lost is half the fun.

As the sun gently rises and the ocean blushes pink, join a local fisherman on a quest to hook Mahi-Mahi or tuna on a traditional boat. There are plenty of tour operators you can pre-book with or master some local phrases to approach a local skipper on the beach and go hyper-local.

While it can be touristy, sipping on a Bintang and watching a marmalade sun slip behind Mount Agung is worth the minimum spend of around A$10 entrance fee at Sunset Point Amed Bali.

Where to stay

yoga at Blue Earth Village, Amed, Bali — Partake in a sunrise yoga session in an open-air bamboo shala with breathtaking views of Mount Agung. (Credit: Blue Earth Village)

Jemeluk Bay and Amed Beach are the social heart – walkable and with reef straight off the shore. Lipah Beach hits the sweet spot: calmer water, clearer visibility, a slower pace. Further east, Selang Beach and Banyuning lean into seclusion with quiet coves and tucked-away villa stays.

Wherever you land, stay ocean side. Amed’s single coastal road links the villages, but it’s narrow, busy in parts and trucks rumble through.

wooden bungalows with Mt Agung in the backdrop — Stay in beachfront bungalows set against the stunning backdrop of Mt Agung. (Credit: Getty/tashka2000)

Budget travellers are spoiled around Amed Beach with charming guesthouses and dive stays. For something elevated, Blue Earth Village brings a breezy, almost treehouse feel with wide ocean views and is great for solo travellers. Along Lipah, boutique villas dial things up with private pools and front-row sailor views. Villas Bukit Lipah are a cluster of bamboo villas with sustainability at its ocean-gazing heart.

Nearby, in the village of Lean, Life in Amed Boutique Hotel offers an easy beachfront base. For a splurge, The Angsa Villas perch above the sea with understated luxury and private infinity pools.

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Where to eat in Amed

rice with grilled fish and veggies in Amed Bali — Tuck into a savoury Balinese meal with grilled fish freshly caught from the sea. (Credit: Getty/Cn0ra)

In Amed, eating is all about toes-in-the-sand simplicity with knockout views. For Balinese flavours, drift between beachside warungs for smoky, just-caught fish straight off the boat, fragrant curries and sweet pandan pancakes oozing with coconut and palm sugar.

Warung Sabar in Lipah Beach, with jungle-green walls and frangipani drooping overhead, hums for lunch and dinner. Rimba Cafe is a cool oasis dripping in foliage, serving colourful smoothie bowls alongside in-house baked bread and pastries. Craving pasta? Trattoria Amed serves up generous bowls of Italian classics, with tables angled straight at the sea.

Practical tips

ATMs are limited and unreliable so take plenty of cash. Wetsuit booties help on the rocky beaches, and while the water’s warm, a lightweight rashie is best for sun protection. Don’t forget sunscreen and mosquito repellent.

After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers?

In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.

Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?

Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?

How tourism is changing in Nepal

Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.

Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.

“Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.

Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”

Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.”

CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.

A new generation demanding more

Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”

We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”

Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels — Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you…

bouda stupa prayer flags — Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.

Boudha Stupa vendors — Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.

A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.

Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.

Life unfiltered in the Terai region

tharu woman — Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.

Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.

Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.

Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

“The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.

On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.

community homestay entrance — A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.

The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.

In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.

food at community homestay — Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.

The power of community homestays

community homestay owners in Nepal — Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.

“I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?”

The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed.

Sonara community room — An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.

Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.

CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.

“Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.

In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.

“We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.”

Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”

Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal.

Amed: spend time in the Balinese coast no one knows about

Slip away to Amed Bali, where a collection of fishing villages offer a slower, more authentic side of the island.

Where is Amed?

How to get to Amed

Best things to do

Where to stay

Where to eat in Amed

The ultimate guide to the best Bali accommodation

The ultimate guide to the best bars and beach clubs in Bali

The best day trips from Bali

Everything you need to know before visiting Bali

These community homestays are changing how travellers experience Nepal