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This luxury Ganges cruise reveals India’s top highlights

A cruise along India’s sacred Ganges offers moments of quiet reflection amid the vivid rhythm of the Indian subcontinent.

Soft light on the Ganges signals sunset. On the deck, I sip a glass of sauvignon blanc, a varietal I never reach for at home, but – locally made in the Nashik Valley – it tastes different here. Or maybe it’s just the magic of the river.

Delhi: where old and new collide

Ganges Voyager II cruises the Ganges in India
Uniworld’s Ganges Voyager II cruises along the sacred waterway. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

“There’s a vast difference between this river and all the others in the world," says Raj Singh, who owns Ganges Voyager II and charters it to Uniworld Boutique River Cruises. Raj explains the Ganges is an unexplored area, one that most outsiders know little about. But for millions in India, Mother Ganga cleanses, heals and liberates souls.

“And unlike most rivers, you don’t see any other ships here." What makes this Uniworld cruise special is the quiet exclusivity; you have the river to yourself, far from the crowds and chaos. “This is still India, but it feels like India from 50 years ago," says Raj.

Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi, India
Pit stop at Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

That sense of quietude stands in striking contrast to the intensity that characterises so much of India. Before sailing through the country’s spiritual heart on Uniworld’s Ganges Voyager II, our journey takes us across the classic northern circuit known as the Golden Triangle, a whirlwind introduction to its immersive, sensory-rich nature.

After a busy day arriving in Delhi and exploring Raj Ghat and Humayun’s Tomb, my travel companions and I are elated but exhausted. Sensing this, our cruise and tour manager, Vishal Bhasker, laughs: “Don’t worry, you’re about to get woken up!" He’s right. Soon, we are swept into a rickshaw ride through the beating heart of Old Delhi and thrust into the fabulous riot and colour of Chandni Chowk market.

“This is the season of the mango," Vishal shares, while pointing out a street stall where the fruit is stacked in a golden pyramid. The sweetness surpasses what I know back home, and we experience its rich flavour and vibrant presence everywhere from hotel breakfasts to markets.

Visiting the Taj Mahal, India’s grand dame

Taj Mahal in Agra, India
Have the Taj Mahal to yourself at sunrise. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

The next leg of our journey brings us to Agra, where we visit the Taj Mahal not once, but twice. At sunset, thousands of visitors swarm the grounds, moving like ants around the crown jewel of Mughal architecture. But at sunrise, we find ourselves in near silence, sharing the marble wonder with just a handful of others.

Our guide Yogesh ‘Yogi’ Rathore is visibly surprised by the quiet, and I recognise this surreal experience as a true rarity. That awe-inspiring mausoleum or ‘temple of love’ remains in view back on the lush grounds of The Oberoi Amarvilas, where we are met with impeccable hospitality.

The Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra, India
Retreat into luxury at The Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

Leaving Agra behind, we travel to Jaipur, where jewel-toned palaces and dusty pink streets unfold, caparisoned elephants move with solemn grace and bazaars brim with vivid textiles and spices. At day’s end, The Oberoi Rajvilas offers a serene retreat of domed villas, sunlit courtyards, and the calls of over 300 peacocks parading the grounds.

Stepping onboard: life along the Ganges

Onboard Uniworld's Ganges Voyager II
Suites onboard the Ganges Voyager II feature hand-painted murals. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

After travelling eastward through Kolkata to board the Ganges Voyager II, the energy of the capital of West Bengal gently pauses. Life onboard the 56-passenger vessel is steady and luxurious. Both the suites and lounge areas evoke the grandeur of a bygone era and offer a rare perspective on life along one of the world’s most iconic rivers.

I admire the hand-painted murals in my ornate suite, which vividly depict life on the Ganges. I spend a couple of tranquil hours alone at my Juliet balcony, watching the river’s daily rhythm unfold: fishermen patiently casting their nets, friends swimming in the gentle currents and vibrant celebrations lighting up the shores.

Raj tells us that many of the staff have worked on the Ganges for up to two decades. Their quiet, intuitive care is felt in every interaction, like the morning I returned from a brief 20-minute breakfast of freshly prepared aloo paratha and dahl to find my suite already reset by the housekeeper. “This becomes their home, their life, and they work from their heart," Raj shares. The boutique river cruise also provides us with a restorative sanctuary after a series of stimulating cultural excursions along the river.

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Exploring the City of Temples and beyond

A local woman at the markets in Kalna, India
Meet friendly locals among market stalls in Kalna. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

We step into a lesser-known chapter of our journey in the small town of Kalna, also known as the ‘City of Temples’. Here, we wander amid 108 Shiva temples arranged in two concentric circles that are a striking visual and spiritual mandala in devotion to Lord Shiva.

Our meditative stroll gently ends as we reach the local markets, threading through a tight maze of stalls where women dressed in colourful saris sell fresh produce. The air becomes heavy with the distinct metallic tang of fresh catch as hawkers proudly call out their flapping carp and perch, slicing them alive. It’s a sensory overload and a profound insight into Bengali life.

Back onboard, we spot a Ganges river dolphin leaping through the air, its energy mirroring the exhilaration I feel after our morning adventure. Retreating to my suite, I listen to the melodies drifting from a nearby fishing boat and realise we have been hearing music constantly throughout the journey, from temple grounds to city streets. Music is deeply woven into daily life as both entertainment and part of the country’s spiritual rhythm.

Onboard Uniworld's Ganges Voyager II
Soak in river views back onboard the Ganges Voyager II. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

That evening, we are treated to a traditional Baul singing and instrumental performance in the lounge, a deeply spiritual and emotionally charged form of Bengali folk music that invites listeners on a journey of inner reflection and transcendence. On our final night, a dance performance by local Kolkata dancers brings the journey’s vibrant spirit to a joyful close – a reminder, as one host puts it, that this movement and music is the Indian culture that binds us all together.

Uniworld Boutique River Cruises offers two India packages that include a seven-night Ganges River cruise onboard the luxurious Ganges Voyager II, which sails between September and March. The 13-day India’s Golden Triangle and the Sacred Ganges itinerary travels from New Delhi to Kolkata, and includes stays at Oberoi hotels in Delhi, Agra (home to the Taj Mahal) and Jaipur before boarding the ship.

The 2026 package starts from $9439 per person in March 2026 in a Signature Suite and includes excursions and most meals expertly prepared using fresh ingredients. Availability is limited, so early bookings are essential.

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Rachael Thompson
Rachael Thompson is a freelance travel journalist, editor and hotel addict based in the UK. She was formerly International Traveller's Evergreen Editor and was responsible for the foundational content ahead of its website relaunch, as well as managing and growing the brand’s destination guides. With a background in design and travel media, Rachael is dedicated to creating content that is as much informational as it is beautiful. She began her career at Belle magazine, before taking up editorial roles at Homes to Love and Bed Threads. Next on her travel wish list is Malta.
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These community homestays are changing how travellers experience Nepal

    After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers? 

    In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.  

    Tharu dance
    Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?  

    Nepal gray langur
    Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?  

    How tourism is changing in Nepal

    Bardiya National Park
    Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.  

    Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.  

    “Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.   

    Local men in Bhada village
    Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”  

    Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.” 

    CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.  

    A new generation demanding more

    Dalla Town Hall
    Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”  

    We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”  

    Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels
    Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you… 

    bouda stupa prayer flags
    Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.  

    Boudha Stupa vendors
    Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.  

    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi
    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.  

    Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.  

    Life unfiltered in the Terai region

    tharu woman
    Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.  

    Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.  

    safari through Bardiya National Park
    Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.  

    Marigolds
    Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    “The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.  

    On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.  

    community homestay entrance
    A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.  

    The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.  

    In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.  

    food at community homestay
    Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.  

    The power of community homestays 

    community homestay owners in Nepal
    Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.  

    “I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?” 

    The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed. 

    Sonara community room
    An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.  

    Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.  

    CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.  

    “Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.  

    Elephant watch
    Elephant watch. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.  

    Gathering greens
    Gathering greens. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    “We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.” 

    Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”  

    Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal