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Review: Lapostolle Residence, Chile

Tucked away in a verdant Chilean valley, Gina Reynolds indulges herself in an award-winning property that redefines the concept of five-star luxury.

There are times in one’s life to overcome any feelings of guilt and simply partake in the hedonistic pleasures of sheer indulgence!

This was one of those times: I had booked two nights in one of the world’s finest and most respected vineyard resorts, Lapostolle Residence in Clos Apalta in Chile’s Colchagua Valley.

Considered one of the best wine regions in the world, the Colchagua Valley is around two-and-a-half hours’ drive south of Santiago.

Out of this poor soil rich things grow and as far as the eye can see merlot, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, shiraz, and carmenere vines thread their way across the Clos Apalta valley floor. They’re the lifeblood of Lapostolle and the world-famous wines it produces.

Appearing to crown this verdant majesty, a magnificent bronze sculpture rises triumphantly upon the hill ahead of me. Rendered in reflective glass it mirrors the views of this family-owned vineyard, yet cleverly conceals the actual entrance to Lapostolle’s winery within.

We drive past the sculpture to the Residence. Having arrived just before lunch, we are invited to relax alongside the infinity pool in a garden sketched with soft grasses and cacti.

We’re visiting in summer when the dining tables are laid with relaxed elegance and set on granite flagstones overlooking the vineyard.

We sip an aperitif, a Kappa Blue Star blended with blueberries and described as a “Pisco like no other" (a Chilean favourite which is usually a potent blend of grape brandy, lime, egg white and Angostura bitters).

We are given a personalised menu of four courses (think Michelin-star quality) with four perfectly matched handcrafted wines to accompany each.

It’s not just reds that are on offer; two superb whites from Lapostolle’s vineyards north of Colchagua, in Casablanca and Las Kuras, are also featured. All of the bottles remain on the table for us to enjoy at our leisure.

Lapostolle Residence hosts a maximum of four couples at a time in four huge casitas or lodges. Nestled into the native forest hillside, each has a private terrace and garden and affords absolute privacy.

The décor is inspired by the four varietals that make up the blend of Lapostolle’s iconic Clos Apalta wine.

We are staying at the very top in the Carmenere casita; Carmenere is the name of a Bordeaux grape varietal which was brought to Chile before the onset of the phylloxera aphid which destroyed the vines in France. It is grown here in Colchagua.

Our massive 90 square-metre lodge is all glass and pale honey coloured rauli wood, softened by the natural light and the lime colours in the silk and leather upholstery. It’s as heavenly inside as it is out, with the spacious surrounds, much like the views, seeming to go on and on. Time is precious here.

The fan gently spins in the high arc of the ceiling and I choose not to close the automatic blinds at night so that I can wake and be greeted, in my bigger than king-size bed, by the sight of the early morning kissing the grape-laden valley beyond.

Whether walking, sitting, bathing, swimming, eating, drinking, having a massage or practising yoga, there are breathtaking views across the Clos Apalta valley everywhere you look.

Initially I’d imagined driving from Santiago to Colchagua’s main town of Santa Cruz and choosing some much more affordable accommodation, then joining one of the premium wine tours which operate in the area.

But I kept returning to the highly prestigious and very tempting Relais & Chateaux property, Lapostolle, tempted by its awards – Wine Spectator’s World’s Best Wine for its Clos Apalta 2005 – and the outstanding reviews of its accommodation and food.

In 1994 Madame Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle, great-granddaughter of the creator of Grand Marnier, and her husband Cyril de Bournet undertook a creative challenge with no expense spared, blasting tonnes of granite bedrock out of a sloping hillside in order to build a six-storey, gravitational, fully organic winery below ground.

Today, a corkscrew shaped, spiral staircase of recycled granite curls down 25 metres below the stunning sculpture visible on the surface. It’s meant to resemble wine swirling in a glass.

We take a private tour between lunch and dinner and taste the results of blending French expertise with the perfect Chilean climate, soil and conditions; Lapostolle’s Casa Grand Selection Sauvignon Blanc, chardonnay, and the blends borobo and Clos Apalta. Never have I felt quite so spoilt.

If exercise is required between all the fine dining and wining, guests can choose from horse-riding, swimming or mountain biking. I decide to walk down through the vineyards to admire the organic fruit, vegetable and herb gardens before strolling on to the farm.

Looking between the vines I am greeted with an endless chorus of “hola!" from the girls pruning the grapes. I check out the horses, chicken and a llama, and although I successfully tiptoe past the dozing dog, I accidentally scuttle the geese and ducks.

I had been concerned about how my husband and I would manage breakfast, followed by four courses for lunch and the same again for dinner, complemented by four separate wines and, of course, a Grand Marnier liquor, but it was never an issue; something to do with pacing ourselves in the knowledge that at the Residence there was always something equally brilliant to come.

 

Details

Lapostolle Residence

Clos Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile, +56 72 2953 360, en.lapostolle.com

The IT Verdict

It’s a definite ‘why not spoil yourself’ for couples who love to immerse in all-inclusive, relaxed luxury.

  •  Location: 10/10
    This intimate Chilean hideaway is all about the amazing, inspirational views, and it’s only a 10-minute drive to the Santa Cruz Museum.
  • Style/character: 10/10
    Where luxury shares a perfect affinity with nature. Walk, cycle or ride amongst the vineyards, past the organic gardens, to the farm.
  • Service: 10/10
    Generous and unpretentious warmth; we’re told “Treat this as your home". You really are a special house guest.
  • Rooms: 10/10
    A huge WOW factor. A masterpiece in design makes for cool luxury.
  • Food and drink: 9.5/10
    Wine and food lovers rejoice! I loved the exquisite courses paired with freely poured, incredible wines.
  • Value for money: 8.5/10
    Even though it’s approximately $1541 per night, per couple I recommend a two-night stay (or longer!). Lapostolle offers a chauffeured car from Santiago for $343 each way.

 

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8 grand journeys across Latin America

    From camping along alpine meadows in Patagonia to cruising the Amazon, these are the best Latin America journeys to tick off your bucket list.

    1. The Q Circuit in Patagonia

    Travelling with: Emma Ventura

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    A turquoise lake surrounded by snow-capped peaks at Patagonia’s Torres del Paine National Park. (Image: Getty/ MBPROJEKT_Maciej_Bledowski)

    Tolkienian peaks, pristine lakes and snow-bloated rivers are highlights for most visitors spending a couple of days in Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park. But for the more intrepid, the real rewards come from a 10-day solo circumnavigation of the Q Circuit, camping along tracks that become more sparsely trodden the further you head into the park’s astonishingly diverse landscape – think glacial passes and granite spires, alpine meadows and forest paths. Five-star lodges might provide a break from Patagonia’s infamously feisty weather, but there’s nothing like carrying your own kit, a chance encounter with an elusive puma, and a crackling wood stove in a remote refugio for delivering the kind of fulfilment that money just can’t buy.

    2. The jungles of Central America

    Travelling with: Megan Arkinstall

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    The Mistico Hanging Bridges in La Fortuna are perched above the forest floor.

    Emerging from the seas millions of years ago, the isthmus that is Central America is a tropical sanctuary of jungle-clad volcanoes, thunderous waterfalls and mist-shrouded rainforests, fringed by coral reefs. At its heart, Costa Rica is the land of pura vida (pure life), a tiny country that is home to six per cent of the world’s biodiversity – think toucans, macaws, anteaters, tapirs, jaguars, sloths – with verdant rainforest carpeting more than half the country. It’s a land to explore on two feet, two wheels and with two paddles. Do all three on Intrepid Travel’s eight-day Costa Rica: Hike, Bike & Raft tour and G Adventures’ 16-day Costa Rica Adventure.

    a toucan in the rainforest of Costa Rica
    A rainbow-billed toucan in the rainforest of Costa Rica. (Image: Getty/Freder)

    3. Dance across Latin America

    Travelling with: Elizabeth Whitehead

    samba dancing in the street, Brazil
    Put on your dancing shoes in Latin America. (Image: Getty/Pollyana Ventura)

    Don your tassels and get flirty cha cha-ing in Havana. Feel the heat dancing Argentine tango at a milonga in Buenos Aires. Hear the pulse of percussion as you samba in Rio. In Latin America, movement is an expression of culture, celebration and passion. You don’t have to be a professional to partake, and there are plenty of dance schools where foreigners can learn the basics. It’s easy as one-step, two-step, cha-cha-cha.

    4. Hike to Colombia’s Lost City

    Travelling with: Sarah Reid

    the terraces of Lost City, Colombia
    The Lost City is Colombia’s best-kept secret. (Image: Getty/Charly Boillot)

    Reaching the ancient ciudad perdida (‘Lost City’) of Teyuna hidden within the steamy jungles of northern Colombia is a surreal moment, amplified by the challenging three-to-five-day return trek to get there. Built by the Indigenous Tairona People around 800 CE, this labyrinthine complex of stone staircases and circular platforms has only been partly excavated since treasure looters stumbled upon it in 1972. Limited tourism infrastructure adds to the Indiana Jones vibe. Intrepid Travel’s new Lost City Trekking in Colombia tour includes a respectful visit to a Wiwa community to learn more about their Tairona Ancestors and traditional way of life.

    5. The Galápagos Islands

    Travelling with: Carla Grossetti

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    Visit the remote Galápagos Islands on a Silversea cruise.

    Expect the brackish air around the Galápagos Islands to be mixed with the gritty odour of bird droppings and pungent tang of sea lion BO. Twist your binoculars until the black eye of the giant Galápagos tortoise fills the other end, and you might imagine yourself to be quite the adventurer centuries after the inhabitants of these islands inspired Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution. Get onboard a cruise with operators like Silversea, HX Expeditions, Celebrity Cruises and Metropolitan Touring to see the remote archipelago of 19 islands loom into view just 900 kilometres off the coast of mainland Ecuador.

    a blue-footed booby on the Galapagos Islands
    A blue-footed booby on the Galapagos Islands. (Image: Getty/Bruce Campos)

    6. Pantanal, Brazil

    Travelling with: Carla Grossetti

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    Spot a jaguar in the world’s largest tropical wetland. (Image: Getty/ Dgwildlife)

    Brazil’s Pantanal, the world’s largest tropical wetland and a UNESCO World Heritage site, is reportedly one of the best places on Earth to spot jaguars. This vast landscape of flooded plains and savannahs also shelters more than 650 species of birds (such as the toucan and hyacinth macaw) as well as various reptiles including the yellow anaconda and cold-blooded caiman (a type of crocodilian). Add capybaras, giant anteaters, maned wolves, giant river otters and South American tapirs to your wildlife bingo card, too. And find a tour that includes piranha fishing, if you dare.

    7. Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia

    Travelling with: Carla Grossetti

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    Immerse yourself in the world’s largest salt flats. (Image: Getty/ Olga Gavrilova)

    Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni covers more than 10,500 square kilometres, making it the world’s largest salt flats. The salt flats of Uyuni were formed more than 40,000 years ago when several prehistoric lakes dried up and left a bed of rich minerals behind. Stay at Luna Salada, where the walls and furnishings are made from dense bricks of packed salt, so you can immerse yourself in this ethereal landscape. Visit southern Bolivia during the dry season when the salt crystallises into mesmerising shapes and patterns.

    8. The iconic sites of Peru

    Travelling with: Megan Arkinstall

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    Hiking the Andes. Cruising the Amazon. It’s the stuff of legends. From the vast expanses of Lake Titicaca to the archaeological wonder of Machu Picchu to the Amazon Basin, one of the greatest remaining wildernesses on Earth, you can stitch Peru’s epic sites together on tour with andBeyond or Abercrombie & Kent. To sweeten the experience, both luxury operators are launching new state-of-the-art vessels on the Amazon River in September 2025 and July respectively.

    the superior suite onboard andBeyond Amazon Explorer
    Stay in a superior suite onboard andBeyond Amazon Explorer.
    Review: Lapostolle Residence, Chile - International Traveller Magazine