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Bern, Switzerland: Essential city guide

The Swiss capital, Bern, is a delightful mélange of history, politics, great coffee and ghost stories, discovers Leigh-Ann Pow. Come find out the where and how…

Out and about

One of Bern’s most famous sons, the artist Paul Klee, is feted at the Zentrum Paul Klee, an architectural masterpiece of undulating lines by Renzo Piano situated among green pastures just outside the city. The museum houses around 4000 of his works; you can also take a side trip to the nearby Schosshalde graveyard, where Klee is buried.

Albert Einstein may have been born in Germany, but he was one of Bern’s most famous residents and published his Theory of Relativity while living here. The flat he rented from 1903 to 1905 at Kramgasse 49 has been restored in the style of the period and is open to the public as the Einstein House museum.

Bern is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in the country, and the Old Town (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is an absolute delight to explore. Lose yourself in its covered walkways and intricate fountains, topped with colourful figures depicting heroes and historical events of the Middle Ages, and make sure you check out the macabre Child Eater Fountain or Kindlifresserbrunnen at the Kornhausplatz. Start at the Zytglogge (clock tower) and work your way towards the river, then cross the Aare River via the Nydeggbrücke (bridge) to get a view back at its beauty.

Insider’s secret

If you are a culture vulture and plan to fill your time in Bern’s many museums, a small fee buys you a 24- or 48-hour Museum Card and thus unlimited free entry throughout the city. You can purchase these from your hotel or from Tourist Information staff at the main station; the added bonus is each card covers two children under 16 at no extra cost.

Eat streets

Altes Tramdepot has views of the Aare River and the Old Town, and its eclectic menu encompasses Swiss classics as well as French and Asian offerings. But the real appeal is in the homebrews, which are conjured up in giant copper vats in the middle of the restaurant. The spectacular Kornhauskeller, with its vaulted ceilings and frescoes in Bernese High Baroque style, is a treat as much for the eyes as it is for the belly with its menu of Mediterranean cuisine.

Retail reconnaissance

Bern is a shopping paradise come snow, rain or shine thanks to its wonderful covered arcades in the medieval Old Town. There are myriad boutiques, galleries, cafes and wine shops tucked in underneath them or intriguingly located below street level in old basements. Stroll them at a leisurely pace.

Bernese natives Nicole Verbeek-Burri and Evelyne Pfeffer, the design duo behind local fashion label PAMB, are committed to making uncomplicated fashion that can be worn from day to evening, and makes a woman feel appropriate and beautiful no matter her shape or size.

The sweetest souvenirs of the city (literally and figuratively) are Mandelbärli, little almond teddy bears reflective of the city’s ursine emblem and styled on the bear dance portrayed on the medieval bell of Bern’s Holy Spirit Church. Shop for flavours including chocolate, honey and lemon, and classic vanilla at Beck Glatz.

Caffeine hits

Beloved of local coffee aficionados, Adriano’s Cafe Bar bustles at just about every hour of the day: the coffee beans here are roasted in-house making it the perfect choice for a morning hit. At lunch there are bagels and sandwiches with a focus on organic produce and interesting combinations, and at night you can choose from one of its homebrews.

Bar Lorenzini (Hotelgasse 10) has a chic vibe, packed with locals reading papers and sipping their chosen brew. There’s a decent Italian restaurant upstairs and a lovely internal courtyard at ground level.

Stay and play

Affordable

Hotel Marthahaus Bern is located in a quiet residential area only a 10-minute walk to the centre of town, with a guest kitchen, free wi-fi and complimentary breakfast, as well as light, modern rooms.

Moderate

Located in a 500-year-old building ‘99 steps away from the clock tower’, the three-star Hotel Restaurant Goldener Schlüssel Bern has rooms decorated in modern style and a restaurant downstairs serving hearty Swiss cuisine.

Luxury

The official hotel of the Swiss government, the Bellevue Palace is classically grand, with beautifully appointed rooms and various dining options, a cigar bar and spa, all in the heart of the city.

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Ultimate experience

Bern’s long history of battles and plagues and intrigues has left the city with its fair share of spooky stories; the best way to hear them is on Get Your Guide’s 90-minute tour of the spooky Bern. Taking in the Old Town at dusk, the guide tells stories of haunted houses, restless souls and the ‘legend of the white mist’. Goosebumps guaranteed.

 

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What the European heatwave means for your summer travel plans

    Rachael Thompson Rachael Thompson
    Continue
    Temperatures are soaring this summer, breaking records across Europe and the UK. 

    Euro summer is a feeling like no other. But when a heatwave hits? The dream trip quickly turns into a sweaty mess. Extreme heat is sweeping Europe and the UK this week, with record-high temperatures impacting travel plans across the continent.

    And while Australian summers are typically hotter in absolute temperature, many European cities aren’t equipped for high temperatures, resulting in unbearable weather.

    Why is it so hot in Europe?

    Signs of a hot summer loomed in May, when the mercury hit unprecedented spring highs. Now, extreme high temperature warning alerts have been issued in countries such as Spain, Italy, France, England, the Netherlands and Germany.

    France saw its hottest day on record on Wednesday, with an average temperature of 30°C across the day and night. This surpasses the average temperature for June, which is 15°C to 25°C. Dozens of people have died, including 40 from drowning.

    In Spain, 212 deaths have been linked to the heatwave.

    The UK recorded its hottest June day ever on Wednesday with temperatures soaring to 36.1°C. In an article published by the Met Office – the UK’s national meteorological service – Professor Stephen Belcher CBE, Met Office Chief Scientist, shared his concerns about June’s heat. “To see temperatures like this in the UK in June is sobering. Events like this bring home the implications of climate change, with very high temperatures and humidity bringing significant health implications from heat stress, as well as impacts to a range of sectors such as transport, energy and water supply,” he said.

    Heatwaves are becoming increasingly common in Europe and the UK, neither of which is prepared for such extremes. The World Meteorological Organization reported that in 2025, at least 95% of Europe experienced above-average annual temperatures and that the continent was heating up twice as fast as the global average.

    How travel is impacted

    A pharmacy sign displaying 40 degrees Celcius
    A pharmacy broadcasting local weather data. (Credit: Getty/Dragoncello)

    During a heatwave, power grids, water systems and transport networks can be affected, resulting in disrupted itineraries for travellers. In France, power outages have left thousands without electricity and early closures have been implemented for two of Paris’s biggest attractions, the Eiffel Tower (early afternoon rather than late at night) and the Louvre (two hours early). Eurostar cancelled its London to Paris and Paris to London services from the 22nd to the 25th, and major UK rail companies have been advising travellers to avoid using trains where possible, or to travel during early hours.

    If a heatwave is predicted, being flexible with your itinerary and having fully refundable/changeable tickets is key, as extreme heat can force the cancellation of outdoor activities, impact rail and flight services and change the opening hours of sites and eateries.

    Why does summer in Europe often feel hotter than summer in Australia?

    people swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris
    People swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris to cool off. (Credit: Rachael Thompson)

    With some of the highest UV levels in the world, Australians are no strangers to the heat, adapting well to intense weather. But our infrastructure is largely equipped to withstand soaring temperatures with climate-responsive passive design, refrigerated air conditioning or evaporative coolers, as well as swimming spots aplenty.

    Buildings in Northern and Western Europe and the UK, however, are constructed to retain heat and handle frosty winters. The lack of universal air conditioning means it generally feels hotter even though the temperature on your app might not look it. During a heatwave, it can feel like you’re in a sauna as cities act like heat traps.

    How to stay cool and prepare for another heatwave

    Relief is expected across Europe and the UK later this week, but more heatwaves are still possible in the coming months. Summer heat typically peaks in July and August.

    Public transport often doesn’t have air conditioning, and buses in particular can be swelteringly hot. If you’re heading outside or your accommodation has no air conditioning, it’s worth buying a spray bottle and a handheld fan from a pharmacy or tourist stand. Check ahead of time if restaurants and cafes have air conditioning and make a booking in advance. The highest temperatures typically hit between 3pm and 6pm, so aim to head outdoors outside of these hours.

    Rising temperatures invite travellers to enter a more intentional era of seeing the world. Now more than ever is the time to embrace lower-impact “coolcations” and off-season getaways.