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Where to stay in Tokyo: 15 best hotels for luxury and family travel 

Tokyo is flush with exceptional hotels and world-renowned hospitality, but choosing the right can make or break your time in the country’s most magnetic city.

There are two sides to the Japanese hotel coin. On one, you’ll find a masterclass in compact living, where clever design and efficient use of space come together to create artfully considered stays. Often budget-friendly yet impeccably clean and reliable, these hotels are perfect for travellers who spend more time exploring than sleeping.

On the other, Japan delivers some of the world’s most refined luxury stays, sanctuaries that feel entirely removed from the pace of the city, where holistic wellness, meticulous service and thoughtful design take centre stage.

For a city as densely populated as Tokyo, it sets an exceptionally high bar for hotel stays, no matter which side of the coin you choose. To help you navigate which city areas and hotels to hang your hat at the end of a busy day, we’ve curated a heady list from luxury and boutique to mid-range and family-friendly.

The best areas to stay in Tokyo

While Tokyo is incredibly easy to navigate – with neighbourhoods flowing into one another – each area has its own distinct energy. Choosing where to stay can shape your entire experience.

Shinjuku

If you really want to be in the thick of Tokyo’s neon-lit nightlife, charismatic locals and non-stop energy, Shinjuku is hard to beat. Home to everything from mid-range and sky-high stays to capsule hotels, it’s one of the city’s most versatile bases, and a major transport hub.

Shibuya

the Shibuya shopping district
The Shibuya shopping district in Tokyo is the epicentre of Japanese youth culture and streetwear. (Credit: Getty/visualspace)

Seamlessly blending city chaos with modern style, Shibuya feels slightly younger and more trend-driven than most other neighbourhoods in Tokyo. A cultural melting pot of cafes, shopping and bustling nightlife, it’s a go-to spot for travellers who favour contemporary stays over traditional ones.

Asakusa

Hozomon gate and Pagoda of Senso-ji temple in Asakusa, Tokyo, Japan
Tokyo’s oldest Buddhist temple, Sensō-ji, is situated in the Asakusa district. (Credit: Getty/Elena Zolotova)

For a more traditional slice of Tokyo, Asakusa delivers. Home to iconic landmarks like the Senso-ji Temple, it’s a delightfully walkable and historic neighbourhood, offering a slower pace. It’s ideal for travellers seeking a quieter base, while remaining relatively close to the city action.

Ginza

Ginza shopping district in Tokyo, Japan
Ginza is Tokyo’s premier district for shopping, dining and entertainment. (Credit: Getty/Elena Zolotova)

Revered as one of the most sophisticated suburbs in Tokyo – thanks to its healthy offering of designer stores and Michelin star restaurants – Ginza offers a mix of polished stays and luxury retreats less than a kilometre from Tokyo’s CBD.

Roppongi

the intersection between Roppongi Street and Gaien Higashi Street
The intersection where Roppongi Street and Gaien Higashi Street meet. (Credit: Getty/Gyro)

If nightlife, art and a more international crowd appeal, Roppongi is a premium choice. Known for its cosmopolitan flair, travellers can expect lively bars, museums, galleries and buzzing hotel lobby bars all minutes from each other.

Marunouchi

Marunouchi, Tokyo at night
Base yourself in Marunouchi near Tokyo Station. (Credit: Getty/Jui-Chi Chan)

Close to both Tokyo Station and the Imperial Palace – yet far enough away to deliver a calmer and more refined atmosphere – Marunouchi offers a calm contrast to the city’s busier districts. Home to many of Tokyo’s most esteemed hotels, travellers can expect spacious suites and effortless convenience.

Best luxury hotels

Aman Tokyo

The Café by Aman at Aman Tokyo
The Café by Aman is the hotel’s stand-alone dining space within Otemachi Forest. (Credit: Aman Tokyo)

Central Tokyo
Starting from approximately $1,800 per night

Celebrated as a sanctuary in the sky, Aman Tokyo is a contemporary take on a traditional ryokan, epitomising Japanese luxury at its most refined. Each suite offers sweeping views across the city, with select signature suites revealing striking vistas over the Imperial Palace –  and even Mount Fuji on a clear day.

From its generously proportioned rooms – where signature suites begin at 121 square metres – to its sought-after wellness spa, Aman Tokyo has become a destination in its own right. It’s the perfect stay for travellers with a penchant for modern design, serenity and a true sense of escape above the city.

Tokyo at Otemachi

chapel at the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi
The chapel at the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi features a cascading light installation.

Where: Otemachi
Price: Starting from approximately $1,200 per night

The Four Seasons has long been synonymous with some of the world’s most opulent hotels, and its Tokyo at Otemachi outpost more than lives up to the name.

Conveniently set within the well-connected Otemachi district, the hotel soars high above the city, meticulously blending modern elegance with subtle Japanese craftsmanship. Designed to make you feel instantly at home, children under 18 stay for free, and you can even request your room to be childproofed with bed rails and bottle sterilisers.

Home to the Michelin-star dining French restaurant est, revered Italian fine dining at PIGNETO, and expertly crafted cocktails at VIRTÚ, Tokyo at Otemachi is certainly designed for sophisticated epicureans. Add to that some of the most plush king-sized beds in the city, and it’s a stay guaranteed to elevate your time in Tokyo.

Park Hyatt Tokyo

The Peak Lounge & Bar at Park Hyatt Tokyo
Sip on sunset drinks at the sky-high Peak Lounge & Bar in Park Hyatt Tokyo.

Where: Shinjuku
Price: Starting from approximately $900 per night

Speaking of reputation, after a 19-month renovation, Park Hyatt Tokyo – famously immortalised in the 2003 Sophia Coppola film Lost In Translation – is back, and it’s never looked better. From redesigned rooms and elevated fine dining, to the same dramatic floor-to-ceiling sweeping skyline views that first catapulted it to global acclaim, it remains effortlessly striking.

Romanticised by cinephiles and designer-hotel aficionados alike, this is one hotel stay that more than lives up to the moment.

Palace Hotel Tokyo

Where: Marunouchi
Price: Starting from approximately $1,200 per night

When it comes to five-star elegance and exceptional hospitality, it doesn’t get much more refined than Palace Hotel Tokyo in the city’s central Marunouchi district. Awarded three Michelin Guide keys – the guide’s highest distinction, it offers a stay that feels quietly luxurious.

Overlooking the Imperial Palace gardens, the hotel delivers a rare sense of space and greenery in the heart of Tokyo. Its design leans into understated, contemporary luxury, favouring calm interiors, natural light and impeccable attention to detail. With a suite of world-class amenities, it’s the kind of place that makes stepping outside entirely optional.

​​Bvlgari Hotel Tokyo

Where: Central Tokyo
Price: Starting from approximately $2,700 per night

Bringing a distinctly contemporary Italian glamour to the capital of Japan, Bulgari Hotel Tokyo is the latest jewel in the brand’s portfolio – and it delivers a welcome slice of indulgence. Inspired by the 1970 Bvlgari brooch featuring Mount Fuji, the hotel’s 98 rooms and suites pay subtle homage to the house’s unmistakable design language.

From its shimmering mosaic-lined pool to the Michelin-starred Niko Romito restaurant, every detail feels considered. It’s an idyllic base for the design-driven and fashion-forward, where bold meets Tokyo’s precision. Plus, if you have little ones in tow, they’re catered for too with themed toys, backpacks, whimsical in-room teepees, and a dedicated children’s menu.

Best boutique hotels

K5

the K5 bedroom interior, Tokyo
Aimai (blurred boundaries) is the design concept behind K5 Tokyo’s immersive and deeply calming rooms.

Where: Nihonbashi
Price: Starting from approximately $500 per night

A masterclass in restoration and revitalisation, K5 occupies a former 1920s bank building, thoughtfully reimagined as a design hotel where slow living and quality craftsmanship take centre stage. Its contemporary and minimalist approach to interiors is softened with Japanese art and tactile furnishing, creating a warm, homely feel – one that invites guests to unwind with a whisky in hand and a spinning vinyl in the background.

Located in the Nihonbashi neighbourhood, the hotel offers a range of accommodation, from entry-level 21 square metre studios to an expansive 80 square metre suite ideal for parties and entertaining. With plush king beds, record players in every room, and a collection of celebrated on-site venues including a brewery, bar, cafe and Japanese-Nordic restaurant, K5 leaves little reason to leave.

TRUNK (Hotel)

inside the dining suite of TRUNK (Hotel), Tokyo
TRUNK (Hotel) is a pioneer of Tokyo’s ultra-hip boutique hospitality scene. (Credit: Courtesy of TRUNK)

Where: Shibuya
Price: Starting from approximately $500 per night

Despite its location in the heart of energetic Shibuya, TRUNK (Hotel) offers an elevated, design-led retreat cradled high above the city’s bustle. Spread across two high-rise buildings, this 15-room boutique hotel caters to a range of travellers, from compact, thoughtfully-designed double rooms or those spending more time out exploring, to a 140 square metre suite complete with a private terrace.

Channelling an understated, industrial aesthetic, the hotel interiors are layered with lush greenery and a curated mix of plush leather, warm wooden panelling, and contemporary artworks. With Shibuya Station just 11 minutes walk away, it feels like a true urban oasis and an ideal base to explore Tokyo’s most dynamic neighbourhoods. And if you’re travelling as a family, children under 12 stay for free when sharing a bed.

Yuen Bettei Daita

the onsen bath at Yuen Bettei Daita Tokyo
The onsen bath at Yuen Bettei Daita features hot spring water fed by Lake Ashi at the base of Mt Fuji.

Where: Setagaya
Price: Starts from approximately $370 per night

If you’re seeking a truly tranquil stay in the heart of the city, look no further than Yuen Bettei Daita. This intimate, traditional-style ryokan offers a rare sense of calm within Tokyo, feeling worlds away while still just a short stroll from the vibrant streets of Shimokitazawa.

Designed to evoke a countryside retreat, the hotel takes a holistic approach to wellness, with a serene spa offering aromatherapy treatments and restorative full-body massages. But the pièce de résistance? The hotel’s open-air Hakone hot spring onsen is an inviting space to unwind and melt away the day’s fatigue. Finish with a fragrant cup of tea, and you have the perfect antidote to Tokyo’s fast pace.

The Aoyama Grand Hotel

Where: Aoyama
Price: Starts from approximately $500 per night

Brimming with fashion boutiques and culturally credible dining, Aoyama is one of Tokyo’s most exclusive neighbourhoods – and the award-winning The Aoyama Grand Hotel only adds to its allure. Recently recognised with a coveted Michelin Key, the boutique property has amassed acclaim from both industry leaders and travellers alike for its approachable yet luxurious mid-century modern design and highly sought-after location. With just 40 rooms, it strikes a considered balance between intimate boutique charm and full-service five-star hospitality.

While the hotel offers a refined mix of Japanese and Italian restaurants, bars and cafes, its crowning feature is the sky-high rooftop. Here, guests can take in sweeping neon-lit views of Tokyo’s skyline while unwinding with a meticulously crafted cocktail.

The best mid-range hotels

MUJI Hotel

Where: Ginza
Price: Starts from approximately $180 per night

Located in the heart of Ginza and set above MUJI’s flagship concept store, MUJI Hotel is more than just a place to stay; it’s an extension of the brand’s philosophy. Embracing a minimalist, no-fuss approach to living, the design-led property is ideal for travellers who value simplicity, functionality, and location over excess space and traditional luxury.

Compact yet considered, rooms range from a modest 14 square metres to a more generous 52 square metres, each thoughtfully appointed with warm wood panelling, crisp white bedding and chic robes designed for comfort. From its highly efficient layouts to its focus on rest and wellbeing, the hotel offers a calm, carefully curated base – perfect for those seeking a sense of stillness while remaining within reach of Tokyo’s vibrant city life.

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Hotel Groove

Hotel Groove in Tokyo
Soak up the Tokyo skyline high above Kabukicho Tower. (Credit: Hotel Groove)

Where: Shinjuku
Price: Starting from approximately $400 per night

Living up to its moniker, Hotel Groove strikes a balance of style, price and comfort – but with a veil of eclecticism and imagination. Drawing inspiration from music, art and Shinjuku electric energy, the hotel leans into a playful, design-forward aesthetic that feels distinctly Tokyo.

Set high above the city in Kabukicho Tower, rooms offer sweeping skyline views, while interiors channel a moody, contemporary edge with thoughtful touches throughout. But it’s the hotel’s signature Groove Rooms that best capture its identity. Designed to immerse guests in the spirit of Shinjuku, blending cultural cues and playful artworks inspired by the neighbourhood’s art and music scene.

Mitsui Garden Hotel

the indoor soaking area at Mitsui Garden Hotel, Tokyo
A sleek, modern Japanese bath at Mitsui Garden Hotel.

Where: Nihonbashi
Price: Starting from approximately $300 per night

It’s rare to find a hotel in the heart of Tokyo that offers an expansive onsen-style public bath –  let alone a mid-range one – but Mitsui Garden Hotel in Nihonbashi delivers that and then some.

Exuding a quiet confidence, the hotel places a sharp focus on polished interiors and elevated amenities, embodying the “Nihonbashi Value" through spaces designed to engage the senses. From its serene, onsen-style bath, accented with cypress and Japanese umbrella pine, to its terrace bar pouring meticulously crafted cocktails, this urban retreat offers a refined stay without the luxury price tag.

Best family-friendly hotels

Grand Hyatt Tokyo

Club Lounge at the Grand Hyatt Tokyo
The luxury Club Lounge sits on level 10 of the Grand Hyatt Tokyo.

Where: Tokyo Central
Price: Starting from approximately $450 per night

Located within the Roppongi Hills lifestyle complex, Grand Hyatt Tokyo offers a refreshing blend of adult sophistication and family-friendly amenities. Thoughtful touches make travelling with children seamless –  young guests are welcomed with a kids’ pack featuring cotton yukata robes to match their parents’, along with toothbrushes, and even nappies if needed. Children under 12 stay for free, while children under five dine for free at the limitless buffet.

What truly sets the reputable hotel apart, however, is its expansive wellness offering. The serene indoor spa and fitness centre, located on the fifth floor, provides a welcome retreat with a range of aromatherapy treatments. There’s also a spacious, family-friendly pool, making it easy to unwind after a day of exploring – without having to compromise on comfort or convenience.

MIMARU

the bedroom interior at MIMARU Tokyo
Scandinavian style meets Japanese aesthetic at MIMARU Tokyo.

Where: Various locations
Price: Starting from approximately $450 per night

Sure, hotel rooms can be great when travelling with young ones in tow, with many offering thoughtful family-friendly touches, but having more space with your own kitchen to cook and unwind is hard to beat. And that’s where MIMARU comes into its own.

With more than 20 locations across Tokyo, finding a convenient base is rarely an issue. Designed to accommodate four to 10 guests in a single space – and priced per room, not per person – the generously-sized apartments start from around 40 square metres. Some feature family-friendly bunk beds, while others offer multi-bedroom layouts, making them ideal for larger groups.

From board games and themed rooms to laundry facilities and complimentary rentals, like baby baths and toys, every detail feels thoughtfully considered. The result is a seamless, stress-free stay that makes travelling with family not only easier, but genuinely enjoyable.

Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel

the bathtub at Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel
A bath with a view above the Shibuya skyline. (Credit: Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel)

Where: Shibuya
Price: Starting from approximately $400 per night

Set high above the buzz of Shibuya, the Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel offers a sophisticated retreat with sweeping skyline views, with a calmer, more elevated perspective on one of Tokyo’s busiest neighbourhoods. Pairing polished design with exceptional service, it’s no wonder it was awarded a coveted Michelin Key.

For families, though, it’s the ease of it all that stands out. Rooms are generously sized by Tokyo standards, and thoughtful touches – like onsite babysitting – take the pressure off travelling with little ones. With multiple kid-friendly dining options, wellness facilities and a prime location just minutes from Shibuya Station, you’ve got a stay that balances energy with escape –  without missing a beat.

Where to stay in Tokyo for first-timers

While Tokyo is an easy city to navigate and get around, the more convenient it is for first-timers, the better. Opt to stay close to one of the larger, more central train stations, so it’s easier to explore. Suburbs like Shibuya and Shinjuku are well-connected with large train stations and boast both coveted shopping spots and a vibrant nightlife, while Ginza offers a more elevated stay, yet is just as centrally located.

How many nights do you need in Tokyo?

In reality, there is no right or wrong answer. If time and budget aren’t a concern, a week or two allows you to slow your Tokyo experience down and properly savour Tokyo – balancing iconic hot spots and lesser-known gems. That said, four to five days is more than enough to get a meaningful taste of Tokyo.

If you’re keen to experience different sides of the city and don’t mind moving, consider splitting your stay. Start with a centrally located hotel in Shibuya or Shinjuku, then switch to a different neighbourhood for contrast – Shimokitazawa for an indie, creative feel, or Yanaka for a quieter, more traditional and nostalgic experience.

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These community homestays are changing how travellers experience Nepal

    After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers? 

    In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.  

    Tharu dance
    Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?  

    Nepal gray langur
    Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?  

    How tourism is changing in Nepal

    Bardiya National Park
    Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.  

    Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.  

    “Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.   

    Local men in Bhada village
    Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”  

    Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.” 

    CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.  

    A new generation demanding more

    Dalla Town Hall
    Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”  

    We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”  

    Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels
    Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you… 

    bouda stupa prayer flags
    Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.  

    Boudha Stupa vendors
    Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.  

    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi
    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.  

    Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.  

    Life unfiltered in the Terai region

    tharu woman
    Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.  

    Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.  

    safari through Bardiya National Park
    Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.  

    Marigolds
    Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    “The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.  

    On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.  

    community homestay entrance
    A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.  

    The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.  

    In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.  

    food at community homestay
    Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.  

    The power of community homestays 

    community homestay owners in Nepal
    Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.  

    “I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?” 

    The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed. 

    Sonara community room
    An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.  

    Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.  

    CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.  

    “Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.  

    Elephant watch
    Elephant watch. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.  

    Gathering greens
    Gathering greens. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    “We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.” 

    Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”  

    Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal