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The best things to do in Osaka: castles, arcades and tasty treats

Deeply rooted in food culture, Japan’s third-largest city tantalises your senses with fiery woks and sizzling hibachis at every turn  – and has grown to become a delectable destination in its own right.

Before journeying to Japan, friends and colleagues raved about their transformative Tokyo trips. They gushed about the tranquillity of Kyoto, urged me to hit the powdery slopes of Nazowa Onsen, and reminisced about the magnificence of Mount Fuji –  but few mentioned the gastronomical thrill of Osaka, which surprised me, because it was hands-down one of the standout highlights of my trip.

Lying slightly under the radar, compared to the likes of Tokyo and Kyoto, Osaka is so deeply rooted in food culture, so much so that it’s considered the culinary capital of Japan, affectionately dubbed the nation’s “kitchen". While locals take their food seriously, they don’t take themselves too seriously. In fact, Osaka locals are known for the endearing philosophy kuidaore –  meaning “eat yourself into ruin" –  a phrase that perfectly captures the city’s playful, down-to-earth spirit. Here, food isn’t just part of Osaka culture, it’s central to daily life and identity.

It’s home to a smorgasbord of moreish street food and Michelin-starred restaurants, but there’s also more to the vibrant city than just eating. To help you navigate your way around “Japan’s kitchen", we’ve curated the best things to eat, see and do, so you can spend less time fussing and more time feasting.

How Many Days Do You Need In Osaka?

the Glico Man in Dontonbori, Osaka, Japan
Glico Man is Osaka’s unofficial mascot. (Credit: Getty/ben-bryant)

Honestly, it depends on how much eating and shopping you plan to do, but around three to four days is a solid starting point. It’s enough time to explore the city’s key neighbourhoods, dive into its food scene and squeeze in a few cultural highlights, while still leaving room for spontaneous stops (and second helpings).

Eat, repeat in Dotonbori

cooking Okonomiyaki on an iron plate in Osaka
Grilled as you like, Okonomiyaki or Japanese savoury pancakes are Osaka’s signature soul food. (Credit: Getty/PRImageFactory)

Dating back to the early 1600s, the Dotonbori River was widened to attract commercial growth, transforming the area into a lively entertainment hub for locals and visitors alike. Today, it remains a walkable wonderland – alive with bustling street food stalls, vibrant restaurants and towering neon signs.

As you wander, you’ll pass vendors serving moreish takoyaki (doughy pancake-like dumplings filled with pieces of octopus and drizzled with tangy sauce), okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes packed with shredded cabbage, meat and egg), and kushikatsu (crispy, deep-fried panko-crumbed skewers). Wash it all down with a crisp local beer or cocktail at one of the many bustling izakayas.

What truly sets this foodie hotspot apart, however, is its seamless blend of old and new. Frozen in time when neon symbolised modernity, Dotonbori feels slightly worn in – in the best way – adding to its nostalgic charm. Be sure to snap a pic with the Running Glico Man, Osaka’s unofficial mascot, and take your time strolling along the Dotonbori River at dusk, when the fading daylight gives way to a dazzling wash of neon.

Play old-school arcade games in Shinsekai

the Tsutenkaku Tower in Shinsekai
Tsutenkaku Tower is regarded as the Eiffel Tower of Osaka. (Credit: Getty/pinglabel)

A short train ride from Dotonbori is Shinsekai, another bustling neighbourhood frozen in time – this time with a focus on retro arcade games, karaoke bars, and pachinko halls, all sitting alongside rows of tempting street food vendors.

Equally as endearingly nostalgic as Dotonbori, Shinsekai leans into its slightly rough-around-the-edges charm. Neon signs flicker above old-school eateries, the scent of sizzling kushikatsu fills the air, and the iconic Tsutenkaku Tower looms overhead. It’s lively, a little chaotic and unapologetically local – offering a glimpse into a more unfiltered side of Osaka that’s best experienced after dark.

Explore Kita and the Umeda Sky Building

the Umeda Sky Building in Osaka
The Umeda Sky Building rises 173 metres above the city. (Credit: Getty/onasan)

Osaka is broadly divided into two main hubs: Kita (north) and Minami (south). Kita – also known as Umeda – is the city’s bustling daytime district, where you’ll likely spend much of your time exploring its mix of department stores, restaurants, cafes and bars. It’s a lively, fast-paced area best discovered on foot, though renting a bike is an awesome way to cover more ground.

Among its many attractions, the Umeda Sky Building stands out. Rising 173 metres, the structure is essentially made up of two towers connected at the top by a striking open-air observatory. Head up to the Kuchu Teien, or “Floating Garden," for sweeping views across the Osaka skyline – it’s especially impressive at sunset, when the city begins to glow.

Explore Osaka Castle

the Osaka Castle surrounded by cherry blossoms
The iconic Osaka Castle is surrounded by sakura trees in full bloom. (Credit: Getty/bee32)

Completed in 1583 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi – one of Japan’s most influential samurai warlords – Osaka Castle is an iconic landmark and one of the city’s most visited attractions. Dominating the eastern skyline, it stands as a masterful example of historic restoration and cultural preservation.

Embodying both political power and refined elegance, the castle rises 55 metres above expansive manicured gardens and wide stone moats. Its striking white facade is trimmed with green-tiled roofs and adorned with shimmering gold accents that catch the light from every angle. Exploring the surrounding grounds alone makes for a memorable day out, but those keen to delve deeper into Osaka’s history can step inside the castle’s museum to uncover the complex legacy of Toyotomi Hideyoshi and the city he helped shape.

Stock Up at Doguyasuji Arcade

Doguyasuji market in Osaka
Sennichimae Doguyasuji Shopping Street is Osaka’s legendary ‘Kitchen Street’. (Credit: Getty/ Zastavkin)

Whether you’re a professional chef, a passionate home cook or simply curious in the kitchen, Doguyasuji Arcade – affectionately known as Kitchen Street – is a true treasure trove of culinary finds. Stretching 150 metres under cover, this bustling strip is lined with specialist stores stocking everything from handcrafted Japanese knives and beautifully glazed ramekins to commercial-grade woks, unique chopsticks and delightfully kawaii baking tools and souvenirs.

Located just moments from Dotonbori, the arcade hums with activity throughout the day. While it’s technically open 24 hours, most shops trade from around 10am until early evening. Take your time wandering from stall to stall, pausing to refuel at one of the nearby street food vendors or casual eateries. It’s an experience as much as a shopping trip – one where you’re almost guaranteed to discover a utensil you never knew you needed. The real challenge? Deciding what to take home and what simply won’t fit in your suitcase.

Shop the best Japanese cooking knives

Japanese knives carry a global reputation for precision and craftsmanship, making them a prized addition to any kitchen. So, if you’re looking to bring home a piece of that culinary heritage – or secure serious brownie points with a thoughtful gift – Osaka is one of the best places to invest in one.

Where you shop will depend on the kind of experience you’re after. At one end of the spectrum are more tourist-friendly stores, such as Tower Knives, where English-speaking staff guide you through the nuances of blade types and steel in polished, gallery-like settings. At the other end are industry-focused retailers like Takayuki (Aoki Hamono), where the emphasis is firmly on craftsmanship, with a strong focus on both carbon and stainless steel knives used by working chefs.

Whichever path you take, the experience offers an intimate glimpse into one of Japan’s most revered crafts. And whether you’re buying for yourself or someone else, many stores offer on-the-spot engraving – adding a personal touch to what is likely to become a lifelong kitchen companion.

Design your own instant noodles at CUPNOODLE MUSEUM

CUPNOODLE MUSEUM in Osaka, Japan
A range of different flavoured CUPNOODLES. (Credit: Getty/Narcissus Studio)

Located in Ikeda, around 30 minutes from central Osaka, this is the birthplace of instant noodles, first created by Momofuku Ando in 1958. Today, the site is home to a lively museum dedicated to one of Japan’s most iconic culinary inventions.

Colourful, sensory and delightfully offbeat, the museum is a part gallery, part interactive factory. Here, visitors can try their hand at making chicken ramen from scratch, following each step of the process – from kneading, spreading, steaming and seasoning the wheat flour and drying it with the flash frying methods. If you’d rather observe than cook, wander through the immersive “instant noodle tunnel", watch the origin story unfold in the theatre shaped like a giant CUPNOODLES, and playfully create your own completely original CUPNOODLES package, complete with personalised packaging and flavour combinations.

While Tokyo is home to the larger CUPNOODLES MUSEUM, Ikeda’s original offers a more intimate and authentic experience that’s equally engaging and rich in history.

See a show at the National Bunraku Theatre

For a deeper dive into Japan’s cultural heritage, catch a performance at the National Bunraku Theatre, where traditional puppet drama takes centre stage. This centuries-old art form brings intricate stories to life through large, exquisitely crafted puppets, each operated by three highly skilled puppeteers working in seamless unison.

The performance is accompanied by the evocative sounds of the shamisen and narrated by a tayū (chanter), whose expressive storytelling adds emotional depth to every scene. Rich in history and artistry, bunraku offers a rare and captivating glimpse into one of Japan’s most refined theatrical traditions.

Learn the art of brewing at the Asahi Museum

Passionate about beer? Learn all about it – and taste world-class beer – at the Asahi Museum. Located inside the Asahi Breweries Suita Plant in Osaka, it’s a sensory experience that’s part guided brewery tour, part interactive museum.

Unlock a behind-the-scenes look at how Japan’s most iconic beers are crafted, from the careful selection of ingredients to the precision-driven brewing and fermentation process. Along the way, immersive displays and expert guides break down the science, history and innovation behind Asahi’s signature crisp, dry taste. The experience culminates, as it should, with a guided tasting, offering freshly poured samples straight from the tank.

Chow down on chicken wings

Nagoya-style chicken wings in Osaka, Japan
Enjoy mouth-watering, Nagoya-style chicken wings ranging from mild and sweet to fiery. (Credit: Getty/PHOTON09)

When hunger strikes in Osaka, you’re never too far from a mouth-watering stall slinging something fried, skewered or slurp-worthy. But beyond its famous street food staples, the city has a devoted chicken wing culture that rivals some of its more headline-grabbing eats. Here, wings aren’t just a snack; they’re part of a social, beer-fuelled dining ritual. It’s less about the condiments and more about the crispy texture, peppery seasoning, and lively, casual atmosphere that comes with it.

While a handful of spots specialise in Nagoya-style tebasaki (fried chicken wings), the standout is Sekai no Yamachan. This cult favourite izakaya is known for its signature wings, coated in a perfectly balanced mix of pepper, salt and subtle sweetness. Served in generous towers, they’re designed for sharing. Master the art of devouring them properly, leaving no trace of succulent chicken on the bone by following the house instructions.

Stroll around Orange Street

Reminiscent of Williamsburg in its early heyday, Tachibana-dori – better known as Orange Street – is a laid-back, design-forward strip that offers a glimpse into Osaka’s creative undercurrent. Stretching for around 800 metres, the street is brimming with independent boutiques, vintage stores, contemporary furniture and homeware shops, as well as a steady stream of low-key cafes. The overall feel is refreshingly relaxed – a welcome contrast to the buzz of nearby Shinsaibashi and Amerikamura.

From leafy, bohemian cafes to streetwear staples and vintage goldmines, like PalStock, JAM, and Hedy, there’s no shortage of unique, thoughtfully curated spaces to explore. Biotop is another great pit stop. Spanning three levels, it perfectly captures the spirit of the street, with a nursery, cafe and beauty offerings on the ground floor, a curated edit of Japanese and European designers above, and a rooftop pizza restaurant to round it all out.

Try a private cooking class

Yakitori Hinata restaurant in Osaka, Japan
Enjoy local favourites at Yakitori Hinata restaurant. (Credit: Getty/winhorse)

As one of Japan’s most celebrated culinary cities, Osaka is the perfect place to roll up your sleeves and learn a few new skills in the kitchen. A private cooking class offers a hands-on way to connect with the city’s food culture – far beyond simply eating your way through it.

Learn to make udon noodles from scratch – kneaded and softened using traditional methods (yes, sometimes underfoot), alongside local favourites like yakitori and okonomiyaki. Set in intimate, home-style kitchens, the experience feels more like cooking with a friend than attending a formal class, with tutors who are warm, knowledgeable and eager to share their craft. For a deeper, more personal taste of Osaka, it’s one of the most rewarding ways to spend an evening.

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Shop American vintage in Amerikamura

In the 1970s, Amerikamura emerged as a countercultural hub, shaped by post-war imports of American fashion and vintage goods. At a time when Osaka’s youth were looking westward for creative inspiration, the neighbourhood quickly became a melting pot of music, style and rebellion.

Today, that spirit still lingers. Amerikamura remains one of the city’s go-to destinations for American-inspired vintage and streetwear, offering a window into Osaka’s youthful, fashion-forward edge. From retro point-and-shoot cameras and old-school Game Boys to thrifted graphic tees and perfectly worn-in Levi’s and Coach bags, the stores here are packed with affordable, character-filled finds. For a mix of retro tech and offbeat knick-knacks, swing by Free Market, and for vinyl, Groovenut Records and Plantation are well worth a browse.

Shop at Shinsaibashi-suji Shopping Arcade

Shinsaibashi-Suji Shopping Street in Osaka, Japan
Shinsaibashi-Suji Shopping Street is home to hundreds of shops. (Credit: Getty/AiMuse)

Osaka is known for its shotengai Shinsaibashi-suji Shopping Arcade covered shopping arcades – but Shinsaibashi-suji is by far the largest and most iconic. Stretching for 2.6 kilometres, this bustling strip is home to hundreds of stores and carries nearly 400 years of retail and entertainment history.

While districts like Orange Street, Kitchen Street and Amerikamura offer more curated, niche experiences, Shinsaibashi-suji delivers a little of everything. From global brands and local favourites to bargain buys and the occasional knock-off, it’s an eclectic mix that reflects Osaka’s energetic retail culture. Even if you’re not planning to shop, the arcade itself is worth wandering – an enduring slice of the city’s commercial past, still very much alive today.

Visit Namba Yasaka Shrine

Namba Yasaka Shrine in Osaka, Japan
The massive lion-head stage (Shishiden) at Namba Yasaka Shrine is believed to ward off evil spirits. (Credit: Getty/decoplus.inc)

Easily one of Osaka’s most distinctive places of worship is Namba Yasaka Shrine. Located in the Namba district, just moments from Namba Parks, the entire shrine forms the shape of a giant lion’s head – Ema-Den – with its open mouth believed to “swallow evil spirits" and bring good fortune.

While it’s a relatively small shrine, the lion’s head is the undeniable drawcard, towering at 12 metres high and offering a striking, almost surreal contrast to more traditional shrine architecture. Quiet and often overlooked, it’s a peaceful pocket in the middle of the city, and a memorable stop for those seeking something a little different from Osaka’s usual temple trail.

Unleash your inner child at Universal Studios Japan

Hogwarts castle at Universal Studios Japan
Harry Potter fans rejoice at Universal Studios Japan. (Credit: Getty/Filmcameraaddict)

If you’re travelling with little ones in tow – or simply have a soft spot for theme parks with a hefty dose of nostalgia – then a day at Universal Studios Japan is time well spent. Located in Osaka Bay, the park is home to a playful mix of themed zones inspired by some of the world’s most beloved franchises, from The Wizarding World of Harry Potter to Super Nintendo World.

Expect everything from the immersive Mario Kart: Koopa’s Challenge and the family-friendly Yoshi’s Adventure to splash-filled Jurassic Park rides and high-adrenaline rollercoasters. It’s an all-out sensory experience, with plenty to see, do and revisit.

As one of Osaka’s biggest drawcards, crowds are a given. To make the most of your visit, purchase tickets in advance and arrive before opening to get a head start on the queues. From start to finish, it’s an energetic, joy-filled day that leans fully into fun.

Eat like a local at Osaka Kizu Wholesale Market

For a more authentic taste of Osaka’s food scene, skip the crowds at Kuromon Market and head to Osaka Kizu Wholesale Market. Tucked away just south of Namba, this working market has been supplying restaurants and locals for generations, and still feels refreshingly under the radar.

Arrive early to find a no-frills mix of seafood vendors, butchers and small eateries serving some of the freshest sushi, sashimi and set breakfasts in the city. It’s less about grazing and more about sitting down for a simple, expertly prepared meal – think melt-in-your-mouth tuna, grilled fish and steaming bowls of miso.

Step back in time at Sumiyoshi Taisha

Red Sumiyoshi Taisha Sorihashi Bridge in Osaka, Japan
The serene pond reflects the iconic arched Sorihashi Bridge. (Credit: Getty/danicachang)

To enjoy a quieter, more contemplative slice of the city, make your way to Sumiyoshi Taisha, one of Japan’s oldest and most significant shrines. Nestled in southern Osaka, it dates back over 1,800 years and is known for its distinctive Sumiyoshi-zukuri architecture, a style that predates the influence of mainland Asia.

Cross the iconic arched Sorihashi Bridge, reflected in the surrounding pond, before wandering through the peaceful grounds lined with ancient trees and vermillion halls. Unlike many of Japan’s more ornate shrines, Sumiyoshi Taisha feels grounded and understated, with its beauty lying in simplicity and history, offering a welcome pause from the city’s energy.

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These community homestays are changing how travellers experience Nepal

    After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers? 

    In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.  

    Tharu dance
    Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?  

    Nepal gray langur
    Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?  

    How tourism is changing in Nepal

    Bardiya National Park
    Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.  

    Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.  

    “Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.   

    Local men in Bhada village
    Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”  

    Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.” 

    CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.  

    A new generation demanding more

    Dalla Town Hall
    Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”  

    We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”  

    Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels
    Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you… 

    bouda stupa prayer flags
    Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.  

    Boudha Stupa vendors
    Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.  

    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi
    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.  

    Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.  

    Life unfiltered in the Terai region

    tharu woman
    Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.  

    Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.  

    safari through Bardiya National Park
    Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.  

    Marigolds
    Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    “The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.  

    On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.  

    community homestay entrance
    A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.  

    The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.  

    In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.  

    food at community homestay
    Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.  

    The power of community homestays 

    community homestay owners in Nepal
    Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.  

    “I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?” 

    The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed. 

    Sonara community room
    An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.  

    Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.  

    CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.  

    “Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.  

    Elephant watch
    Elephant watch. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.  

    Gathering greens
    Gathering greens. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    “We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.” 

    Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”  

    Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal