The Colombian capital of Bogotá is Latin America’s latest dining destination to watch.

Latin American cuisine is hot right now. In fact, nearly a quarter of the entries on last year’s influential World’s 50 Best Restaurants list hailed from the region (Central in Lima, Peru nabbed the No. 1 spot). Two Colombian restaurants also inched their way onto the list, emblematic of a burgeoning foodie scene in the country that’s being stoked by local culinary talent.

Colombia is a country blessed with diverse ecosystems that encompass the Pacific and Atlantic oceans, the Andes mountains, the Amazon rainforest and the stunning valleys and plains in between – it’s the culinary (and touristic) destination to watch.

1. El Chato

For an introduction to Colombia’s cuisine, I head to its capital, Bogotá. Situated some 2600 metres above sea level, it’s the nation’s political, economic, cultural and gastronomic heart with a thriving dining scene. I’ve barely checked into the plush Four Seasons Casa Medina when it’s time to head out for dinner at El Chato, less than 10 minutes’ walk from the hotel. There to greet me is Alvaro Clavijo, the fast-talking chef helping put his country on the culinary map.

“Colombian cuisine is hard to define because it has many influences, including Indigenous, African, Caribbean, Spanish, Portuguese, even Middle Eastern. At El Chato, I apply the techniques I learned in kitchens around the world to native and traditional ingredients to create new dishes," says Alvaro, who has worked at the likes of Noma in Copenhagen and Per Se in New York.

The vibe at his two-storey contemporary Colombian bistro is relaxed, but the food is seriously good. And people are catching on – El Chato has been freshly minted as No. 25 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, moving up eight spots from last year. Downstairs is the buzzy bar and à la carte eatery, but to see what Alvaro and his team are truly capable of, book upstairs for the tasting menu in front of the glass-walled kitchen.

To start, a tart broth made with lulo, which looks like a cross between a small orange and a tomato. It’s accompanied by a fresh bouquet garni and buñuelos (round cheese fritters). In this opener are key elements of the cuisine – fruit, soup, herbs, bread, starch and cheese. Where Colombians would normally add sugar to the fruit and blend it in a drink, Alvaro distils its acidic essence to retain purity of flavour. So it goes with a procession of courses, many featuring fruit (guava, granadilla, melon) and sour, sometimes bitter flavours that supersede the local propensity for sweetness. It’s a palate-tingling experience that sets the bar high.

2. Debora

Over the next few days, I sample a cross-section of restaurants, several of which are within walking distance of the hotel in the upscale neighbourhood of Chapinero. Around the corner is newly opened Debora, where chef Jacobo Bonilla turns out delicious modern Colombian fare in a sleek and stylish space.

The menu roams river, coast and countryside, with chipi chipi (a small clam from the Caribbean) in a sweet chilli and coconut milk stew accompanied by green plantain arepa (cornbread) a highlight, as are the cocktails.

3. Leo

Ten minutes’ stroll from Casa Medina is Leo, the avant-garde, fine dining vision of celebrated chef Leonor Espinosa.

Choose from an eight- or 12-step tasting menu that champions the country’s biodiversity via unusual and little-known ingredients.

Head upstairs at La Sala de Laura, her daughter’s wine and cocktail bar.

4. Harry Sasson

Then there’s Harry Sasson, the father of Bogotá dining. Three decades after opening, his eponymous restaurant in a Tudor-style mansion still attracts the city’s elites. Start with breads such as arepa and pan de yuca, before moving to grilled hearts of palm, morcilla (blood pudding), cazuela de mariscos (seafood stew) and slow-cooked beef brisket. This is hearty fare, so come hungry.

5. Salvo Patria

A short taxi ride away is hip Salvo Patria, where pretty young things go for the likes of seasonal fish ceviche, grilled beef tongue and a signature dessert of mille-feuille with buffalo milk caramel.

6. Humo Negro

Nearby Humo Negro, described as ‘fine dining grunge’, is a Japanese-inspired izakaya by chef Jaime Torregrosa. Think grilled oysters with burnt milk cream, and chawanmushi (egg custard) with Amazonian fish and scallops coloured blue by seaweed.

7. Prudencia

In the historic centre of Bogotá is the wonderful, lunch-only Prudencia, in a restored iron and glass-roofed house. Husband and wife duo Mario Rosero and Meghan Flanigan offer an ever-changing roster of dishes cooked over a barbecue developed by Mario himself. On my visit, it included creole potatoes with cheddar, Gouda and woodfired porchetta.

8. La Perseverancia

Meanwhile, food court-meets-market La Perseverancia is the place for a no-frills feast from stalls specialising in traditional fare from around the country. I try Tolu, known for its ajiaco (potato, chicken and corn soup), mote de queso (yam and cheese soup) and empanadas (addictively savoury turnovers).

9. Paloquemao

Not least is Paloquemao, the city’s largest market. It’s a wondrous maze of fruit and vegetable stands, butchers and fishmongers, florists, herbalists and food stalls. Little English is spoken, so go with a guide. I have the knowledgeable Luisa Naranjo Saenz with me. With her help, I sample all manner of deliciousness, from cheesy pan de bono bread to guanabana (soursop) juice and lechona (whole roasted pork stuffed with rice). What really impresses, however, is the friendliness of the vendors. A question about the best avocado (Colombia has many, many types), turned into a 15-minute chat, without any pressure to buy. It was a scene repeated across the market. The people are proud of their country’s bounty and eager for the world to discover it. I thank them for one of my most memorable food journeys in years.