Trek through Fiji’s remote grasslands and spend the night in a traditional highland village in this rare immersive stay.
Far from Fiji’s beaches, on the island of Viti Levu, you can hike between the remote villages of Naga and Nubutautau. The 11-kilometre route through the Fijian highlands follows a narrow pig track used by local farmers, and the life-giving Sigatoka River, and is one of the toughest and most rewarding day treks I’ve done. The epic scenery, tales of historic cannibalism and time spent in local villages make it an experience well worth doing.
The hike
Name two people who know more about hiking in Fiji than Ben Semira and Jake Taoi, I’ll wait. The local duo run Talanoa Treks, Fiji’s only dedicated hiking company. With Ben’s passion for community development and Jake’s credentials as a conservationist, Talanoa Treks delivers authentic, sustainable experiences that take you into some of Fiji’s most beautiful, untouristed landscapes and support the local community. Hikes run from May to November for groups of up to eight people; private hikes can also be organised for groups of six to 12 people.
On our trip, the 11-kilometre route follows a narrow pig track used by local farmers, and the Sigatoka River. We traverse grasslands, rainforest and sections slick with mud, and make three river crossings, rock-hopping and rappelling boulders as we go. Mercifully, the scenery is as spectacular as the track is challenging. We stop for a pre-packed lunch by a swimming hole, before making the final ascent up a crumbling, near-vertical dirt path to Nabutautau. Along the way, you’ll hear tales of cannibals, learn about native plants and get to know some of the local villagers walking with you.
The village
When we arrive in the village of Naga the night before the trek, a group of young men welcome us with a yaqona (kava) ceremony. Yaqona is made from the powdered roots of pepper plants and numbs teeth and tongue, and is followed by a lovo, a feast prepared by the women and cooked in an earth oven. We tuck into generous portions of dahl and pumpkin curry, among other vegetarian delights, which are served on mats handwoven from pandanus leaves, on the floor of the local community centre.
Sleeping is dorm-style – also on the community centre floor – and mattresses and blankets are provided. There are basic outdoor toilets and showers which are shared by the group, and purified drinking water is provided in 50-litre LifeStraw drums. I recommend packing a sleeping mask and earplugs, especially if you’re a light sleeper (or not used to the sound of dogs scuffling and roosters crowing before dawn). Insect repellent is also a must. The next morning, you embark on a seven-hour hike to the neighbouring village of Nabutautau, where you’ll find a similar feast and sleeping arrangements.
How to get there
Viti Levu is the largest island in Fiji, and is home to the capital city, Suva. Most travellers arrive via Nadi International Airport on the west side of the island. Talanoa Treks offer a handful of hiking experiences, including a two-night Highland Escape (from FJD$1,450 per person), which includes experienced guides, food and accommodation in local villages, plus return transfers from Nadi, Suva or the Suncoast. Want someone else to plan your holiday? Intrepid Travel offers two itineraries to Fiji, an 8-day Fiji: Hike, Raft & Snorkel (from AUD$5,060) and a 16-day Samoa & Fiji Adventure (from AUD$9,360). Both include the village stay and guided trek.
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