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Zurich’s secret bars

Welcome to the lesser-known side of Zürich, where the term ‘dive bar’ takes on a whole new meaning, discovers Nikki Wallman.

Let me guess: hear the word Zürich and you immediately picture images of boring, buttoned-up bankers shuffling down perfectly manicured streets; frosty snow-capped peaks; and lots of fondue.

Now, picture this: ice-cool blondes sunning themselves on timber decks over crystal clear waters; fairy lights and historic church spires reflected in calm pool waters as hedonistic partygoers dance the night away.

Water is the real lifeblood of this city, not the money or the watches or the picture-perfect houses.

The Limmat River splits the Old Town in two, leading down to the magnificent expanse of Lake Zürich, lined by jewel-green parks and majestic buildings.

The Schanzengraben canal traces a quiet path of the city’s ancient walled fortifications. As a result, Zürich boasts around 40 public swimming facilities (18 of them lake, river and open-air areas), the highest concentration in the world.

This alone is impressive, but particularly awesome is what happens at dusk, as many of these picturesque swimming spots are transformed into buzzing waterside bars, called badi-bars in local parlance. Here, three of the best.

1. Frauenbadi/Barfussbar

Round off an afternoon exploring the Old Town by visiting one of the most prime locations in Zürich: the Frauenbadi. The very cool, Art Nouveau-styled pool – a womens-only bath by day – sits right on the Limmat River, overlooked by the imposing old church towers of Fraumunster and Grossmunster.

On Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays between mid-May and mid-September, the Frauenbadi transforms into the Barfussbar (Barefoot Bar) – so named because patrons are requested to kick off their shoes in order to preserve the 125-year-old timber decks. Sunday is dancing night ($18 entry), and ‘Cultural Wednesdays’ feature theatre sports and concerts.

It’s a magical setting: the night-time water reflects twinkling fairy lights; a little bridge crosses the middle of the pool where colourful rubber tubes float; and the Grossmünster spire, lit from below, casts a grand presence over the light-hearted affairs at pool level. There’s a slightly older crowd here, but they hit the dancefloor as hard as their bare feet will let them.
Stadthausquai 12, 8001; barfussbar.ch

2. Flussbad/Rimini Bar

The Flussbad – men-only baths during the day and hipster hangout Rimini Bar by summer night – is a hidden gem, nestled quietly below street level on the Schanzengraben canal behind a green door. Inside vines tumble down the remains of Zürich’s ancient fortification walls on one side, leading to the emerald-green pool.

Come dusk, trestle tables fill the beer garden, colourful neon lightbulbs are strung up along the edges of the pool, and a flight of stairs leads down to the best seats in the house – a bathers’ platform on the water with Moroccan floor cushions and low tables, perfect for lounging.

By night, Rimini attracts a mixed crowd encompassing 30-somethings with babies to students to loved-up couples. The soundtrack is eclectic – a bit of Bowie, some cool country, the new Snow Patrol – and there’s a bit of a Melbourne laneway/Camden grunge vibe going on. Rimini also hosts fashion markets on Monday evenings between May and August, as well as special parties throughout the season.
Badweg 10, 8001; rimini.ch

3. Seebad Enge

Nestled on the shores of the enormous Lake Zürich, Seebad Enge has both mixed and women-only swimming pools as well as spa facilities, stand-up paddle boarding, yoga, beauty services and massage.

Besides the range of facilities on offer, people come here for the startling views: bikini-clad bodies in the foreground, the glittering lake beyond, and snow-covered alps on the horizon. The vibe is all Ray Bans, tans and beautiful people, lounging around the raised open-air bar and deck area in printed sarongs, bikini tops and denim cut-offs.

A disco ball hangs above, glinting and hinting at what’s to come as Seebad Enge turns into a bustling live music venue hosting a variety of acoustic music acts on summer evenings.

The swimming season runs from May to September before giving way to the winter ‘sauna season’, and there are various other events on during the year at Seebad Enge, such as ‘Moules & Frites’ in September/October.
Mythenquai 9, 8002; tonttu.ch

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DETAILS

How to get there
SWISS offers daily connections and fares from all major Australian cities to Zürich from around $1750.

When to go
June to August is the best time for waterside fun. May and September could be dicey and certain bars or pools may not be open.

Where to stay
• Affordable: Hotel du Theatre is a boutique design hotel near the Old Town that also once housed a small theatre. Doubles from $254 per night. Seilergraben 69, Centralplatz
• Comfortable: Helvetia is another boutique hotel with two apartments as well as 14 rooms and stylish restaurant and bar. Double rooms from $310 per night. Stauffacherquai 1
• High-end: If you’ve got cash to splash, try Baur au Lac. At the lake end of Bahnhofstrasse, it makes a luxurious jumping off point to explore the waters of Zürich. Talstrasse 1

The best thing about Zürich
Its capacity to reward visitors who are willing to dig a little below surface level.

The worst thing about Zürich
The prices. Zürich was recently ranked the second most expensive city in the world for tourists. But with the AUD behind us it’s not as unaffordable as we once thought.

Hot Tip
Check out the weather and water temperature of any lido, bath or pool at myswitzerland.com or download the Swiss Swimming Weather iPhone app from iTunes.

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What the European heatwave means for your summer travel plans

    Rachael Thompson Rachael Thompson
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    Temperatures are soaring this summer, breaking records across Europe and the UK. 

    Euro summer is a feeling like no other. But when a heatwave hits? The dream trip quickly turns into a sweaty mess. Extreme heat is sweeping Europe and the UK this week, with record-high temperatures impacting travel plans across the continent.

    And while Australian summers are typically hotter in absolute temperature, many European cities aren’t equipped for high temperatures, resulting in unbearable weather.

    Why is it so hot in Europe?

    Signs of a hot summer loomed in May, when the mercury hit unprecedented spring highs. Now, extreme high temperature warning alerts have been issued in countries such as Spain, Italy, France, England, the Netherlands and Germany.

    France saw its hottest day on record on Wednesday, with an average temperature of 30°C across the day and night. This surpasses the average temperature for June, which is 15°C to 25°C. Dozens of people have died, including 40 from drowning.

    In Spain, 212 deaths have been linked to the heatwave.

    The UK recorded its hottest June day ever on Wednesday with temperatures soaring to 36.1°C. In an article published by the Met Office – the UK’s national meteorological service – Professor Stephen Belcher CBE, Met Office Chief Scientist, shared his concerns about June’s heat. “To see temperatures like this in the UK in June is sobering. Events like this bring home the implications of climate change, with very high temperatures and humidity bringing significant health implications from heat stress, as well as impacts to a range of sectors such as transport, energy and water supply,” he said.

    Heatwaves are becoming increasingly common in Europe and the UK, neither of which is prepared for such extremes. The World Meteorological Organization reported that in 2025, at least 95% of Europe experienced above-average annual temperatures and that the continent was heating up twice as fast as the global average.

    How travel is impacted

    A pharmacy sign displaying 40 degrees Celcius
    A pharmacy broadcasting local weather data. (Credit: Getty/Dragoncello)

    During a heatwave, power grids, water systems and transport networks can be affected, resulting in disrupted itineraries for travellers. In France, power outages have left thousands without electricity and early closures have been implemented for two of Paris’s biggest attractions, the Eiffel Tower (early afternoon rather than late at night) and the Louvre (two hours early). Eurostar cancelled its London to Paris and Paris to London services from the 22nd to the 25th, and major UK rail companies have been advising travellers to avoid using trains where possible, or to travel during early hours.

    If a heatwave is predicted, being flexible with your itinerary and having fully refundable/changeable tickets is key, as extreme heat can force the cancellation of outdoor activities, impact rail and flight services and change the opening hours of sites and eateries.

    Why does summer in Europe often feel hotter than summer in Australia?

    people swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris
    People swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris to cool off. (Credit: Rachael Thompson)

    With some of the highest UV levels in the world, Australians are no strangers to the heat, adapting well to intense weather. But our infrastructure is largely equipped to withstand soaring temperatures with climate-responsive passive design, refrigerated air conditioning or evaporative coolers, as well as swimming spots aplenty.

    Buildings in Northern and Western Europe and the UK, however, are constructed to retain heat and handle frosty winters. The lack of universal air conditioning means it generally feels hotter even though the temperature on your app might not look it. During a heatwave, it can feel like you’re in a sauna as cities act like heat traps.

    How to stay cool and prepare for another heatwave

    Relief is expected across Europe and the UK later this week, but more heatwaves are still possible in the coming months. Summer heat typically peaks in July and August.

    Public transport often doesn’t have air conditioning, and buses in particular can be swelteringly hot. If you’re heading outside or your accommodation has no air conditioning, it’s worth buying a spray bottle and a handheld fan from a pharmacy or tourist stand. Check ahead of time if restaurants and cafes have air conditioning and make a booking in advance. The highest temperatures typically hit between 3pm and 6pm, so aim to head outdoors outside of these hours.

    Rising temperatures invite travellers to enter a more intentional era of seeing the world. Now more than ever is the time to embrace lower-impact “coolcations” and off-season getaways.

    Zurich's secret bars - International Traveller Magazine