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All that glitters in Shanghai

Hidden under the shimmering skyline of Shanghai are places to pause and appreciate the city’s past, present and future. 

In a city of more than 26 million, the scenes playing out around Shanghai’s Fuxing Park make for a pleasing tableau. There are elderly couples performing their daily routine of tai chi under a big-leafed wútóng tree.

A group of women dressed in tracksuits twirling their diabolos in the bright sunshine. And an elderly gent wearing a jaunty cap sending soulful riffs towards the sky with his saxophone. This serene oasis is the first stop on a half-day Shanghai itinerary curated by Wendy Wu Tours.

It is, says my English-speaking guide Troy Zhang, a beautiful example of “the importance of nature and tradition," which sets the tone for the tour.

“This park was a private garden during the Ming Dynasty. It was taken over by the French in 1909 during the French Concession era … but these days is open to everyone," says Troy.

“Aside from all the exercise and social activities happening in this park, it’s a very popular place for local people to connect to nature. Many of the elderly people of Shanghai lived through the trauma of the Cultural Revolution and they come here to find peace," Troy explains.

the Fuxing Park in Shanghai
Fuxing Park provides a calming refuge. (Image: Carla Grossetti)

The history of Shanghai is alive

New and Old Shanghai are divided by the Huangpu River. The tug-of-war between Shanghai’s past and present is evident as we exit historical district the Bund and watch a fleet of EV vehicles hum past.

the Shanghai’s shimmering skyline
Be at the centre of Shanghai’s shimmering skyline.

Seeing the traffic move and not hearing the droning of engines is like a glimpse into the future: about 7.8 million electric vehicles were on the roads in China at the end of 2021. And a law banning the honking of horns along the concrete arteries of the downtown area ably demonstrates how Shanghai has evolved.

While pockets of the city – dubbed the Paris of the East – are cutting edge, a lot of Shanghai’s allure is still found in its ancient temples, heritage shikumen (stone gate) houses and bustling markets.

heritage shikumen houses in Shanghai
The charm of Shanghai is built into its heritage shikumen houses.

The must-see highlights of a Wendy Wu tour

Mengxi Market

This whistlestop tour with Wendy Wu also includes a visit to the unmissable Mengxi Market, where we stand transfixed in front of a bucket of glistening eels, slimy and slithering. Queue for dumplings. And exchange smiles with stallholders who sit in plastic chairs gossiping with their neighbours.

a market selling local street food and popular spices
Bustling markets sell local street food and popular spices. (Image: Carla Grossetti)

Tianzifan

The past and future converge in Tianzifang, an enclave known for residential shikumen houses which have been transformed into craft shops, galleries and cafes in the French Concession.

Xintiandi has also reinvented its old-style shikumen to accommodate upscale bars, eateries and fashion boutiques.

the stone door architectural complex in Tianzifang
Past and present collide in Tianzifang. (Image: cyoginan via Getty Images)

Wukang Road

The Wendy Wu Tours itinerary includes a wander along historic Wukang Road and its backstreets, where influencers are taking elaborately styled selfies to post on Douyin (social media) feeds.

How old and new collide in Shanghai

That collision of old and new is also keenly felt when bouncing between the 400-year-old City God Temple hidden away in Yuyuan Garden and the neon-lit observation deck of Shanghai Tower, the city’s tallest building.

Despite being in the heart of Shanghai, Wukang Road feels like it’s a world away from the city’s beige condos and soaring skyscrapers. “There are 14 historical buildings and 37 preserved architectural gems in this area and it is in contrast to the city’s skyscrapers, which are very futuristic," Troy says.

Yuyuan Garden at night
Yuyuan is an oasis at the heart of Shanghai’s Old City. (Image: chuyu via Getty Images)

There are parts of Shanghai that shout, other pockets that whisper. While much of the city has been polished and pruned, it’s the stories that emerge, like flowers growing in the footpath, that give visitors a deeper understanding about the megapolis. And be it a tea-tasting ceremony, a meander along neon-lit East Nanjing Road or eating xinjiang ali shaokao (lamb barbecue) street-side, Shanghai is at its very best when it segues between its past, present and future.

a busy shopping district with Neon signs on Nanjing Road
Hidden in the busy city are pockets of peace and quiet. (Image: Nikada via Getty Images)

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A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Qantas has resumed its direct flights from Sydney to Shanghai five days a week.

Staying there

The Westin Bund Center is just a short stroll away from the Bund where you can see the city’s skyline, including the Oriental Pearl Tower.

Eating there

Old Jesse Restaurant is a Shanghai institution, known for its haipai (east-meets-west) cuisine.

Address: 41 Tianping Road, Shanghai, China

Playing there

Award-winning Wendy Wu Tours offers fully inclusive escorted experiences around Shanghai.

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Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti avoided accruing a HECS debt by accepting a cadetship with News Corp. at the age of 18. After completing her cadetship at The Cairns Post Carla moved south to accept a position at The Canberra Times before heading off on a jaunt around Canada, the US, Mexico and Central America. During her career as a journalist, Carla has successfully combined her two loves – of writing and travel – and has more than two decades experience switch-footing between digital and print media. Carla’s CV also includes stints at delicious., The Sydney Morning Herald, and The Australian, where she specialises in food and travel. Carla also based herself in the UK where she worked at Conde Nast Traveller, and The Sunday Times’ Travel section before accepting a fulltime role as part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK. Carla and has been freelancing for International Traveller for more than a decade, where she works as both a writer and a sub editor.
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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.